Archive for November, 2008
Nov
30
Posted under
Uncategorized Rat Intelligence - why rats are the smartest pets out there
By: Catherine Smith
We know are rats are intelligent, just by being around them. The knowing looks they give us, the way they solve simple problems and work out how to cause even more mischief. Here is some more info on what we already knew. Our Rats Are Smart!
Learning
Rats pick up new behaviors and tricks very quickly. They try hard to please their owners and you may be surprised how much your rat can learn.
In the wild, rats, like humans are survivors and generalists. They have to cope with every eventuality that nature throws at them. They learn to raid human food and stores and avoid being caught.
Rats have been trained to press a button for food. If they are given food, every fourth time they press the button, they will quickly press it four times to get the food.
They can also learn to turn a light on and off, with no reward. They will simply do it as they like the change. They also like to feel they have power over these things.
Rats have amazing senses of smell and hearing and have been trained to sniff out land mines and bombs, in the place of dogs.
Mazes
Rats are also very good at mazes. It is actually quite fun to make up a maze for your ratty and put their favorite treat at the end. The first time it may take a while for them to get to the treat, but the next time you will see they are much faster.
In one incident a rat was placed in an eight arm maze, with a treat at the end of each arm. The rat learnt how to empty the maze, without going down the same arm twice. It didn’t follow a set pattern, so it’s route could not be predicted. Someone suggested that the rat was leaving a scent mark at each tunnel entrance it had been down, so that it would know not to go down that one again. However, further tests eliminated this possibility. They then turned the maze around and the rat became disoriented.
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Some arms were near a window, or a light. This showed that the rat could picture the maze and the location of the tunnels it had been down. It then reflected on this experience and could find food with minimum effort.
Social Intelligence
Rats are incredibly social creatures, who have very complex relationships with other rats. As you probably know, they can have a very strong bond with people too.
In the wild and in horrible labs, rats can die from social stress. Their relationships are so important to them that there have been report of rats dying from heart break after their partner has died.
Shy rats have been proven to die younger than their more confident peers. It is important to be patient with him, if you have a shy ratty. If you are gentle and quiet and consistent in your efforts you may have a breakthrough.
Rat Dreams
Yes, rats do dream. Have you ever seen your little ratty twitching a little in his sleep? Or even squeaking? Well, it has been proven that rats dream, in very much the same way as humans. They dream about what they have done that day and you may see them moving as they dream.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1491.shtml
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Nov
29
Posted under
Uncategorized Do You Really Need To Insure Your Labrador Retriever?
By: Richard Cussons
Having a Labrador Retriever is fun. Apart from being friendly, this breed is capable of performing a lot of work. They are popular assistance dogs and is widely used by police and other official bodies because of their detection and working abilities. With all those services and help they provide, they deserve to be treated really well.
The moment you decided to take home a new Labrador Retriever, it is expected that you Understand and wholeheartedly accept the responsibilities attached to being a good dog owner. It is your responsibility to provide things like leashes, collars, food bowls and water bowls in addition to nutritionally-balanced food. You also have to make sure that your pet is well taken cared of, is regularly groomed, has plenty of exercise and is free from diseases and other health problems.
But being a good dog owner doesn’t end there. You can do more than just providing all those stuff. Have you ever thought of getting a pet insurance for your ever loyal dog? No kidding! Many dogs owners are now getting pet insurance for their dogs.
Inevitable medical emergencies can occur unexpectedly. Lucky if it is just a minor laceration or a mild vomiting. However, some could be so severe that extensive and prolong or even lifetime medication is necessary. Thanks to the advancement of medical science, treating some rare and complicated diseases is now possible. But then the problem is, your pet may not be given proper treatment because of financial constraints. By having pet insurance, you will never have to worry financial issues anymore in addition to having your pet treated even with the most advance and powerful wonders of science.
There are various companies with different plans to suit the needs of your pet.
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Read and understand the terms and conditions and various coverage schemes. Some plans cover not just regular health care and check ups but also treatment for illnesses and accidents. There are some that covers accidents or both accidents and illnesses. There are also some that covers even x-rays, ultrasounds, operations, physiotherapy, chemotherapy and others. Assess what your dog needs depending on your pet’s breed, gender, health, age and general health condition and decide what plan to choose.
Talk to your vet first before closing a deal with the insurance company. Make sure that your vet accepts your insurer and check if there are other vets in your area which will accept the same insurance company in case your vet is not available in an emergency.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1522.shtml
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Nov
28
Posted under
Uncategorized Cats Dogs And Human Food - How Can Our Food Harm Our Pets?
By: Paul Counts
We?re all guilty of it ? giving in to those big begging eyes pleading at us for a scrap from the table during dinner. Fido knows just how to get you to concede, and most of us justify that a little won?t hurt, or we don?t even think of the potential danger at all. But the truth is that human food can be harmful to your pet, and in some cases, can be fatal. It?s important to know how certain foods can be unsafe so that you can avoid them for the sake of your animal.
Here is how a few of some of the most common ?human foods? become harmful for pets:
Chocolate and other foods containing caffeine
Caffeine is one of the greatest culprits because it contains an alkaloid called theobromine. Theobromine acts as a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic, which in turn can cause a heart attack or other heart and nervous system problems in animals.
Onions and Garlic
Onions and garlic are potentially harmful due to the fact that both contain thiosulphate, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia in cats and dogs. Of the two, onions are the most toxic, as consumption of simply one serving by your pet could result in anemia.
Milk
Milk can harm your pet due to the fact that many dogs and cats tend to be lactose intolerant. The consumption of milk and milk products by a lactose intolerant pet creates a breeding ground for bacteria, causing vomiting and diarrhea.
Bones
Bones, although commonly known as a great treat for your dog, are potentially very dangerous for pets. Once eaten, bones can splinter and get stuck in the intestines, causing damage or fatality. In most splinter cases, the bones must be removed surgically.
Other Foods
Other human foods to avoid when feeding your pet are: macadamia nuts, potato peelings and green-looking potatoes, rhubarb leaves, moldy/spoiled foods, alcohol, yeast dough, tomato leaves and stems, broccoli, and raisins or grapes.
Some human foods potentially cause only mild digestive upsets, while others can be fatal.
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During the holiday season, veterinary clinics have noticed a rising in the number of pets that they treat for food-related illnesses. The increase in pet illness is due to the fact that animals are partaking in human foods during mealtime. Although not well known by the public, the consumption of human food to pets is potentially harmful to animals, and in some instances, can be fatal.
The rise in food-related illnesses by pets is a clear indication that the dangers of human food consumption by animals are not understood by the masses.
So, the next time your pet looks up at you with those pleading eyes, show him you care by doing what is truly best for him and feeding him only products meant for pet consumption. In the end, both you and your pet will be glad that you did.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1462.shtml
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Nov
27
Posted under
Uncategorized Can Parvovirus Affect Labrador Retriever?
By: Richard Cussons
Whether your Labrador Retriever is out in the field working or just right beside you enjoying the dog show, chances of contracting parvovirus exist. Parvovirus is a contagious virus affecting dogs, more frequently puppies. Canine Parvovirus or CPV is a highly infectious disease and is spread from dog to dog with physical contact and contact with infected feces. The virus is not capable of reproducing on its own because of the fact that they contain only DNA or RNA. They invade the cell, reproduce inside it and kills the cells causing dogs and puppies not to be able to absorb nutrients or liquids.
CPV has two forms: intestinal and cardiac. The less common is the cardiac form in which the virus attacks the heart muscle and the dog dies suddenly because of heart failure. Some infected dogs will show no symptoms. But some infected dogs show symptoms such as lethargy, vomiting, high fever, diarrhea, depression and lack of appetite. In severe cases, stool can be very watery, foul smelling, yellow in color and usually bloody. Abdominal pain is also present as well as pain when eating. The possibility of dehydration exist because of severe dehydration and vomiting and the fact that he is not able to replace the nutrients and fluids lost.
To diagnose the presence of parvovirus, positive diagnostic test is done. Canine parvovirus disease requires aggressive or intense treatment. There is no specific cure for this disease. Your vet can only treat the symptoms to keep the pet alive.
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These measures include giving of fluids, regulating electrolyte levels, controlling body temperature and giving blood transfusions when needed. Antibiotic therapy may be needed to control secondary bacterial infections.
To ensure that you’re beloved Labrador Retriever will not suffer this kind of health problem, you should adhere to the required or recommended vaccination. Vaccine against parvovirus is usually administered to puppies six to eight weeks of age and should only be allowed to mingle with other dogs two weeks after their last vaccination. There is no use vaccinating new born puppies since they are still protected by maternal antibodies. However, these antibodies wear off before the puppy’s system became mature enough to fight parvovirus.
CPV cannot be treated at home so consult your vet immediately if you see signs of the existence of this disease.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1523.shtml
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Nov
26
Posted under
Uncategorized How to Puppy-Proof Your House: Safety for Your pup, peace of mind for you
By: Moses Wright
The decision to bring a puppy home is just the first step towards a long commitment. The first and foremost thing to do is to get the house ready for the arrival of the new pup. Your house could be a danger zone for a puppy considering the curiosity of a new pup. You need to puppy proof your house, make sure it is safe and that all the essential puppy supplies are bought.
But how do you know if your house is safe and ready for your new puppy? Listed below is a checklist for you to take note of before you bring your new puppy home:
1. Clear your house of poisonous items - Have you cleared your house of all poisonous items and taken them out of your pup’s reach? If you haven’t, now is the time to put away cleaners, laundry detergents, bleach, disinfectants, insecticides, cleaning fluid, fertilizers, mothballs and antifreeze in cabinets or high up on shelves. Of course, as he grows, and if he has an adventurous streak, he’s sure to jump high on to your shelves to find out what’s where.
2. Secure all medications and unauthorized foods - These items will cause food poisoning or damages to your dogs’ health - Drugs such as Motrin and Tylenol causes liver damage. Common household food items that are harmful include alcoholic beverages, avocado (the only “fatty” member of the vegetable family), coffee, salt, yeast dough, garlic, fatty foods - turkey, artificial sweeteners ? Xylitol, potatoes, onions, nuts, chocolate, grapes and raisins.
3. Uproot all life-threatening plants - Do you have life-threatening plants at home? Seemingly harmless plants such as apricot pits, spinach and tomato vines are dangerous to your pup. You can find a detailed listing of poisonous houseplants that you might have in your family, at this site: www.vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/cover1.htm
You can also ask your vet for more such plants that could affect your pet’s health and life - If your puppy has ingested poisonous plants, contact: Animal Poison Control Center at - 888-4ANI-HELP - (888-426-4435)
4. Put away dangerous objects - Position electrical cords out of your puppy’s reach, so that he cannot chew them. Pick up and keep dangerous loose items such as nails if they are lying around. Put away all sharp objects such as wires, sewing needles and pins, far away from your puppy’s reach. This is to prevent your puppy from swallowing them as such items can harm his mouth and internal organs.
5. Supervise your puppy’s movement - Don’t let your pup remain by himself, unsupervised for long, irregardless of him being indoors or outdoors. Also, remember to keep him away from balconies, upper porches and high decks or he may just slip through the railings and fall. Remember to keep your toilet cover seat down: puppies sometimes like to play in water. Frolicking in the toilet bowl is harmful for him as he may swallow the toilet cleanser. Also, don’t tie ribbons round his neck because he may chew it and this can lead to digestive problems or choke himself if the ribbon gets snagged on other things.
Preparing the Essential Dog Supplies
1. Food and water bowls - Select solid and stable bowls that won’t tip over when he eats or drinks out of it. Are they easy to clean? Buy one each for food and water. Initially, buy small bowls and then as he grows older, buy him larger ones. If you do this, he won’t develop the habit to overeat for his age nor will he fall into his water bowl whenever he goes to take a drink.
2. Collar - There are a large variety of lightweight collars available for your puppy. No matter which one you choose, attach an identification tag, listing your puppy’s name, your address and phone number.
Let his first collar be made of lightweight nylon or leather. To get a good fit, you should measure his neck properly. To do so, measure the circumference of his neck and add two inches to it. To be sure that the collar fits properly, slide two fingers between his collar and your pup’s neck. If it’s a snug fit, the size is right. But if there’s too much space, you need a smaller collar. If your fingers don’t fit in comfortably, the collar size is way too small. Your pup may take a little while to adjust to his collar, so give him time to get used to it.
3.
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If you buy a six-foot leash it would serve both as a leash for training and walking.
It is important to keep your dog leashed unless he is in a close-up area such as a fenced in yard. In many parts of the U.S., leash laws prevail, making it mandatory to keep your puppy on his leash at all times. If he’s unleashed, you may be fined. If your dog happens to defecate in public places, you are expected to clean up after him.
4. Grooming supplies - Grooming him means investing in a number of tools but this will depend on the dog breed you buy and his coat length. For short haired breeds, do invest in a brush with natural bristles, a rubber currycomb or a hand mitt. Sturdy wide-toothed metal combs, flea combs and mat splitters are needed for long haired breeds.
5. Toys - To entertain and exercise your pup, buy him a few toys, as this will help him exercise and get over their cravings for chewing. Choose toys specifically designed for pups ? ones that can’t be splintered, torn or swallowed. What’s fun and safe to have are rawhide chips, nylon chews and hard rubber balls. And, if they don’t fit comfortably in his mouth, it’s not right for him.
6. Recommended puppy food - Give him his essential nutritive foods and get him used to a feeding schedule. Seek advice from your breeder directly or from your veterinarian.
7. Crate or sleeping bed - A Crate is basically a big cage made of metal, plastic or wood. Available in many sizes, the crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around easily, as well as lie down in. It should be airy. It is recommended to set up your pup’s sleeping area in a place where it is warm, comfortable and within your sight. A crate serves very well as a den in your absence from the house. A crate could also be a portable crate enclosed in plastic or a simple wire crate.
When you buy an adult-sized crate, also buy partitions, or place a cardboard box in the back to serve as a cozy space for him. Apart from the crate, set up a sleeping area for him, for the times when you are at home and the crate is not in used. Buy a puppy-sized bed instead of an adult-sized bed, so that he is safe and snug.
A crate when used in the right way promotes good sleeping habits, helps in potty training your dog and discourage undesirable behaviors like nuisance barking and chewing. It can also be a safe confinement for your dog when he’s not supervised at home or when you are driving. A crate is so useful, every owner should have one!
8. Stain and scent remover - To take the odor away from his nose, buy a stain and scent remover. This helps in house training and the maintenance of your house cleanliness.
These are the basic essentials a puppy owner should prepare when bringing a brand new pup home. Do take the time to ensure that your house has been ?puppy-proofed’ and you will find that the preparation will make socializing your new puppy a lot easier!
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1329.shtml
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Nov
25
Posted under
Uncategorized Six Facts About Dachshunds
By: Richard Cussons
Dachshunds are loved by everyone. Well, who wouldn’t love these short-legged and elongated dog breed? They are so cute and everybody just loves to have them as pets. But before actually deciding to bring home your new Dachshund, you must carefully understand its characteristics and needs to evaluate if this breed is the right one for you.
Where do they come from? - According to modern history, Dachshund, bred to hunt badgers, originated from Europe with German, French and English hounds and terriers as ancestors. The name Dachshund literally means ?badger dog?. They are also called Dackel and Teckel.
Size does matter ? Dachshunds come in three sizes, full-grown, miniature and kaninchen. A full-grown dachshund weighs 16 to 28 pounds; a miniature usually weighs less than 11 pounds while the kaninchen weighs 7 to 9 pounds. Because they are low to the ground, they are capable of entering through tunnels.
Temperament ? This dog breed is not suited to impatient people because they are known as strong headed dogs. They have loud bark, dislikes unfamiliar people and will usually growl or bark to show their dislike. They enjoy digging holes and chasing other animals such as birds, squirrels and lizards.
Friends for keeps ? Despite being strong headed, these dogs are very much devoted and loyal to their owners. They make not only good watchdogs but also excellent companions. Actually, they do not enjoy being alone and will whine until company arrives.
Health Facts ? Because of their long spinal column and short rib cage, they are prone to spinal problems especially intervertebral disk disease or IVDD. This disease may result to partial or full paralysis. Obese Dachshunds are more susceptible to this disease.
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They should also get regular exercise to prevent obesity and lessen the risk of IVDD. Other health problems include eye abnormalities, urinary tract stones and mammary gland cancers.
Grooming ? Dachshunds come in three coat varieties, the smooth coated, long coat and wire-haired. However, this breed is low maintenance and only needs brushing to prevent tangles and mats from forming. Their ears must be kept dry at all times to prevent fungus, bacteria and mites.
It’s time for you to ponder based on these facts. Is this breed really right for me? It’s okay to ask that question. What’s important is you will not make a wrong decision of getting a wrong breed of dog.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1440.shtml
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Nov
24
Posted under
Uncategorized Tumours in Rats - what to do when your pet rat has lumps and bumps
By: Catherine Smith
If you find a bump on your female rat, don’t fret. It is usually a benign tumour. You should of course, still get it checked out by the vet. Female rats are very prone to lumps and bumps, especially around the mammary glands. Rats have nipples in odd places. There are a pair right behind their front legs, so this is a common place for a lump.
Benign tumours can grow very fast. They have been known to be the size of the rat itself. It is possible to have the lump surgically removed. If you catch the lump early, this is probably a good idea, as when it gets bigger it will make it difficult for your rat to groom herself and move around properly.
My beautiful rat Ginger has developed a benign tumour. Unfortunately the vet felt she was too old to operate on. There was too much risk involved. He also felt the lump would probably grow back elsewhere. The lump has grown over the last 4 months, but Ginger still seems happy.
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I have been giving her the following mixture to help her body fight:
Mix together the following ingredients:
3 capsules of CLA (Tonalin) (1000mg)
1 capsule Co-enzyme Q10 (10mg)
10 drops of echinacea/goldenseal liquid herbal extract
1ml of sublingual B vitamin complex liquid
1 capsule Super antioxidant formula (has vit C, E, beta-carotene and selenium - do not give this if Enervite or any other vitamin supplements are being given)
3 capsule Pau d’arco (500mg)
1 capsule Flaxseed oil (1000mg)
1″ square of miso paste (pure organic, not flavored)
Divide into 14 parts and keep them in the fridge. If your ratty has a fast growing tumour give this twice a day, otherwise give it once.
You can mix it with yogurt or something else yummy that your rat loves, so as to disguise the taste.
If your male rat gets a lump, there is more chance it could be cancerous. Either way please take your rat to the vets straight away and be prepared for some nursing.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1495.shtml
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Nov
23
Posted under
Uncategorized 6 Significant Dog Instincts And Traits
By: Lamar Deane
Domestication:
Canines were probably the first species to be domesticated by humans. It’s a generally accepted theory that the worlds first dogs were tamed wolves. Dogs share biological similarities with wolves. They look much alike. Anatomically, they have almost identical teeth, adapted for seizing and tearing. Their actions are similar and they have extremely sensitive senses of smell and hearing. Domesticated canines are loyal to and dependent upon their masters. They have taken a subservient place in human society. The only reward many dogs seek is a kind word and a pat on the head. Still, the study of dogs and wolves teaches us many traits that haven’t changed much since before they were domesticated.
1. Instinct:
Instinct is an inborn tendency to behave in a way that is characteristic of a breed.
2. Body Language:
Postural display is yet another characteristic of canines.
* When meeting a strange dog or person, non socialized dogs will raise their hackles (hair on their backs and necks). This is more noticeable in short haired dogs, which makes them look larger than they normally are. It is meant to intimidate other dogs and people who pose a threat. Oftentimes hackle raising is combined with pulling back their lips to show their teeth.
* A dogs ears and tail positions are among other postural displays that will tell what a dog is thinking. For instance, most dogs will tuck their tails between their legs and their ears will fall when submitting to a greater power.
* Rolling over on their backs is another action of submission a dog will portray.
* Kneeling, or putting their front legs on the ground and lowering their front quarters is an indication they want to play. Combining this with a wagging tail displays friendliness.
* A superior more dominating dog will usually assume another significant body posture toward another dog. Standing tall on stiff legs, the superior dog will strut around the powerless one, often stressing this posture with frequent growls and snarls.
* Another instinctive habit seen in many dogs, is turning in circles before lying down. Some experts say this circling goes back to the days when dogs turned around and around to pack down the grass to make a soft bed. Others think the habit is more likely connected to their checking the ground for the scent of its enemies, since the dog has its nose to the ground during the turning around.
* Digging is another inborn trait in that dogs will occasionally dig dens under porches or yards.
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* Chasing cars and/or other animals is not a bad habit, but just another instinct in many dog breeds.
* Attacking small animals is an inborn hunting trait derived from the time these small rodents were the dogs main food source. These inherited instincts are so natural that they cannot be stopped or changed completely, no matter how much effort is used.
3. Sense of Smell:
Sniffing or smelling the wind is another characteristic long established by wolves and other wild canines. This serves as a dual purpose; to detect the scent of prey and to distinguish predators in the area. Some breeds have a more keen sense of smell than other breeds. Domestic canines have 40 times more olfactory (sense of smell) cells than humans have.
4. Sense of Hearing:
With their erect ears dogs can hear the faintest sound and are excellent in early warnings of danger. Able to differentiate the distinct sounds of different cars in the distance, pet dogs often announce the arrival of their owner even before they can be seen.
5. Sight:
Dogs have highly developed visual capability. Their fields of vision is different and in some ways inferior to that of humans, but for their purposes, it is quite adequate.
6. Memory:
Dogs have an excellent memory which gives them the capability to learn quickly. In addition to a good memory and learning ability, a dog has the capacity to think and reasoning capabilities with which to solve problems. Dogs are a cunning and intelligent animal with a complex mind.
Although dogs’ instinctive actions and personalities are influenced by heredity, like other intelligent mammals, they are the products of genetics, experience, and training.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1550.shtml
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Nov
22
Posted under
Uncategorized The Shih Tzu Groom Shop Record Keeping
By: Connie Limon
The Appointment Book
A Shih Tzu beauty parlor should operate much the same as a human beauty parlor. The most essential record is the appointment book. The Shih Tzu dog grooming business relies on a regular schedule. The appointment book will prove to be one of the most important records you have for maintaining an efficient business. The type of appointment book you choose is entirely a personal decision. However, you might start out with one called Week at a Glance.
In the Week at a Glance appointment book, each week is laid out in day-by-day columns. Each day is broken down hour by hour. Notate your Shih Tzu groom appointments immediately in the appointment book. Do not rely on your memory. You do not want the faintest possibility of forgetting an appointment.
Your Shih Tzu groom customers should be informed and encouraged to call in advance for appointments. This may take a little time to develop. You might post a sign just over your reception counter or desk informing customers of this policy. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming enables you to know what to expect each day or any given day. You can plan your time accordingly. Appointment only Shih Tzu grooming will also help you to not overbook on one day and under book the next day. You want your Shih Tzu grooming shop to look busy, but not ?hectic? and overwhelming.
Perfecting an ideal Shih Tzu grooming schedule can present a number of complicating factors. With time and experience you will succeed. A wise Shih Tzu groomer will anticipate at least one cancellation on any given day, or a customer may not show up.
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A well established Shih Tzu beauty parlor should be able to successfully operate with a limited number of Shih Tzu handled each day. Try to establish regular customers that come every four to six weeks.
For the Shih Tzu beauty parlor just starting out, however, you might want to have a definite appointment system but with some flexibility. The worst system of all is not keeping any appointment record and just taking anyone at anytime. If you sell your business, well-kept records and a good customer base list would make a difference in the selling price.
Master List
Another important record is your Shih Tzu grooming master card. It is wise to keep a card for every Shih Tzu. The front of the card should record special instructions or comments (style of hair-do or clip customer prefers), two telephone numbers if available. In case of emergency or you just need more information you should be able to reach the Shih Tzu customer either at home or an alternate number. The back of the card should contain a chronological listing of the dates the dog came in and the prices charged.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1382.shtml
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Nov
21
Posted under
Uncategorized 6 Things You Should Do When You Have A New Puppy In The Home
By: Dr. Mayra Alfonso
Adopting a new puppy can be one of the most exciting things that can happen to a person or a family, but that cute little fur ball can also cause a lot of stress, especially in the first few days of coming to his new home. If you have just adopted a puppy, there are a few things you need to keep in mind to make sure that this new addition to your family grows up healthy and happy. Below are 6 things you should do for your newly-arrived puppy:
1. Give your new puppy plenty of love and attention, particularly when he does something “right.” Start communicating with your puppy the moment you bring him home. Don’t wait for your puppy to make a mistake or do something wrong before starting communicating with him. If you start communicating with your puppy this way, you are essentially training your puppy that you are nice some times and not nice at other times.
2. Puppies love to chew so give your puppy lots of chew toys. You can make chew toys for your puppy or you can buy a few from your local pet shop. This way your puppy learns early one to chew on his toys instead of your shoes!
3. Have comfortable, warm bed for your puppy. If you intend for your puppy to live outside the house, make sure to provide him with weatherproof doghouse. The doghouse should be spacious too. If you decide to let your puppy sleep inside the house, you can use a rectangular wooden box for his bed. You can also check out crates and kennels sold at local pet stores..
4. Keep an eye on your puppy when small children are present. Puppies are practically no match for rambunctious small kids. Puppies can easily get injured and even killed when they are left alone with small children.
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5. Start your puppy on a regular feeding schedule the first day it arrives in your home. If your puppy is six months old or less, provide him 3 to 4 solid meals each day. During each feeding, give your new puppy all the food he can consume within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, take away any leftovers. It is very important that you provide your puppy plenty of fresh drinking water in between meals.
6. Start training your puppy to go on regular bathroom breaks. Take your puppy to the same bathroom spot at the same times every day, if at all possible. It is recommended that you take your puppy on bathroom breaks after every meal and two to three hours in between his meals, and after he has taken a nap. At night, take your new puppy on late-night bathroom trips. This will train your puppy early on to go to his bathroom spot if he needs to urinate in the middle of night instead of doing it right in his crate.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1543.shtml
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Nov
20
Posted under
Uncategorized Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression
By: Darrin Donaldson
A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!
But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
- Different aggression types -
There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:
- Aggression towards strangers
- Aggression towards family members
You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?
Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
- Aggression towards strangers -
What is it?
It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)
Why does it happen?
There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?
What can I do about it?
The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.
How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?
When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.
It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.
The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.
What’s resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
Dog Training - Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression Part 1
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Dog Training - Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression Part 3
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Dog Training - Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression Part 2
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Dog Training for Aggressive Dogs
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Dog Aggression Over Toys
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If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.
When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.
Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.
Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch.
It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership.
To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1575.shtml
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Nov
20
Posted under
Uncategorized The Consequences Of Dog Worship
By: Kate Loving Shenk
I found a rugged quartz crystal in our garden yesterday and brought it to my writing table, to gaze at its beauty and reveal its mystery as I write, like gazing into a crystal ball.
The five crystals in the center of it are perfect, in their own wild way, like the days I spent in total conflict with myself, with society and the world.
It brings to mind one of my favorite Alphia stories, my golden German Shepard Collie of the 1960’s, the pre-Funk commune years, occurring several months after the communal caravan arrived in San Francisco.
We found our large Victorian house after several weeks of illegal camping around the jagged Pacific shore hideaways and in the many untamed parks for which the city is famous.
The caravan people had remained disgruntled in spite of the constant dog/God guidance surrounding us.
A chasm developed between those who wanted to join the ranks of the work-a-day world, and the four of us who went on to establish the Funky Farm community and knew that going to work was antithetical to living creatively by the seat of our pants.
I had come to a place within myself where I needed to live outside of the mainstream, established 9-5 ho-hum I’m beaten down, kill me now style of existence I imagined my father ascribing to for his thirty-five working years, at the same place, doing the same job, everyday. I’d think of an exhilarating alternative, bet on that.
My life as a rip off artist now began in earnest.
One day, I took Alphia Lee for a walk in Golden Gate park. A squirrel distracted her from the beloved stick, and damn it if she didn’t run in front of a fast moving car. She crawled back to the side of the road.
I remember crying and kneeling beside her, going over her body, getting a sense of how badly she was hurt. A car pulled over and a young man asked to take me where ever I wished to go.
He had an old blanket and we carefully laid her on it.
Then he drove Alphia and me to the big rambling Victorian house that was our temporary abode.
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She’d look at us with a forlorn Muki eye, the dog who joined me 28 years later to show me true love.
That look inspired me to slip into the meat department of a local Safeway, and steal one steak a day for her, and for her only.
Then we’d sit with her for hours, stroking her neck and body and encouraging her to come back to us.
The long intimate times we spent with her were patient and happy. We did not desperately plead with her to live rather than die. Rather, we coaxed her gently, showing her our love, and gave her the great option of living with a handful of rogues completely alienated from society.
She opted to spend a few more years with us in our experiment of living–dangerously.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1423.shtml
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Nov
19
Posted under
Uncategorized What Every Dog Owner Ought to Know About Holiday Safety
By: Jennifer Koretsky
The Christmas holidays are fast approaching! While you’re busy decorating and preparing your home for guests, here are a few important tips to keep your dog safe this season.
The Christmas Tree
Tinsel, small ornaments, and ornament hooks are major choking hazards for dogs. It’
