Archive for June, 2008
Jun
30
Posted under
Uncategorized Let\’s Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!
By: Connie Limon
There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.
There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.
A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:
Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) Canine distemper virus (CDV) Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) Rabies virus (RV)
If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.
Other vaccine tips you need to remember:
Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.
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Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog’s health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.
Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.
Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.
This article is free to publish with the resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1289.shtml
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Jun
29
Posted under
Uncategorized Find New Dog Strollers at Pet Stroller Mart
By: Daniel Dan
Pet Stroller Mart continues to offer customers the biggest and newest selection of dog strollers and pet strollers out there today. We have got a selection of brand new dog strollers that you’ll enjoy. Like previous collections, our new selection of dog strollers continue to appeal to customers’ demands of easy travel storage, pet comfort and safety, and reliability. You’ll find that a lot of our customers use these pet strollers for puppies, guinea pigs and even ducks. Customers with handicapped pets discover that Pet Stroller Mart Products are a fantastic way to bring their pets with them wherever they go.
Our new Jogger Pet Stroller is a fantastic way for pet owners who are active to take their pets along with them when they are jogging. It’s built expressly for difficult terrains and reliable for all running and jogging situations . Now, pet owners that are active can go running and spend quality time with their cat, puppy, or other loving pet as they stay in shape. The pet stroller comes equipped with larger wheels for faster speeds, and was developed to suit the best running abilities. Remember, joggers should wear a good pair of running shoes because shoes that are worn can potentially cause leg and back damage.
The portable pet house is the newest in pet travel accessories, and is a part of the expanding product line at Pet Stroller Mart. Portable pet houses are designed to be folded easily and put away in the car or in the home. Its well-made design is made just for use in parks, backyards, and any other territory when you’re traveling. It is also easily cleaned, and made out of fabric that is easily maintained. The solid design is built to last a long time. The portable pet house comes in an assortment of colors, and best of all you can purchase it and get free shipping within the continental United States.
Our Central Park Pet Stroller is an excellent stroller that’s quite a bit bigger than our original 4-Wheel Pink Pet Stroller. Offered at an attractive price, it comes in vivid colors with a neon stripe that makes it a great deal easier to see on city streets.
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This is an excellent pet stroller for a relaxing walk in the park, or to take your pet shopping in. This stroller’s wheels are well built, and are designed for smooth sidewalks as well as rough or uneven roads. Our dog and cat strollers make perfect Christmas or birthday presets.
Pet Stroller Mart’s future plans include broadening its merchandise line beyond pet strollers. We’re planning to offer products specifically for dogs, cats, and small animals or small creatures. PetStrollerMart is fully committed to providing new and creative products that the major pet stores may not have. Watch for pet beds, and even complete bedroom sets, complete with clothes hangers so that you can hang pet outfits. We at Pet Stroller Mart plan to continue our expansion, and hope that our visitors will be pleased with our offerings and what they buy.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1562.shtml
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Jun
28
Posted under
Uncategorized Life With The Shih Tzu Part III
By: Connie Limon
In part II of this series of articles we started discussion about the Shih Tzu topknot. Follow the steps below to create a Shih Tzu topknot:
1. Take the hair for the topknot from above the nose and eye. Be careful to not draw up any beyond the outer corner of each eye or back of the ears. If the Shih Tzu?s head is small, take up less and make a narrow topknot. When you place a band be careful to not place it too tight. The skin can become sore and the Shih Tzu will most likely attempt to scratch it all out.
2. If the Shih Tzu is very heavily coated you may need to use more than one band to hold up the topknot.
After grooming your Shih Tzu sit back and enjoy the sight. The Shih Tzu is stunningly beautiful and gorgeous and wonderful right after a groom. Take your pictures quickly.
If you are careful about how you introduce grooming as well as how pleasant you make subsequent grooms your Shih Tzu will come to enjoy the attention.
And what about stain?..well I do believe I have a method here that will help you tremendously in removing the yellowish stains from your Shih Tzu?s face. Follow the steps below and see if they work for you and your particular Shih Tzu:
1. Mix two cups corn starch with one cup boric acid.
2. Store the mixture in a container.
3. Use this mixture on the facial hair twice a day after washing and drying it.
4. Tie the facial hair into ?ponytail? like sections with groomer bands.
5. Use a small cosmetic brush to brush on the mixture.
6. Bath your Shih Tzu every three days. Fifteen minutes before bathing, wet the face and put two tablespoons of #1 All Systems White Lightening on the facial hair. Work it in thoroughly.
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7. Allow the #1 All Systems White Lightening to remain on the facial hair for 15 minutes. Rinse very thoroughly.
8. Start bathing the Shih Tzu. Before shampooing the Shih Tzu?s body, shampoo the face with Biogroom or Ring 5 Whitening Shampoo. These two brands are tearless. The better choice is the #1 All Systems Professional Whitening Shampoo, but this shampoo is not tearless. If you think you might get the shampoo into your Shih Tzu?s eyes, use the tearless brands.
9. After one month or more the face should become very white.
Enjoy, enjoy, and enjoy, that wonderful white face on your Shih Tzu!
Bathing
Show dog Shih Tzu are bathed more frequently than one might think. Not only are most of them bathed weekly, whether they need it or not, show dogs are bathed before every show. So much washing surely takes out most of the natural oils from a Shih Tzu?s coat. They require much more use of conditioning products as well. The pet Shih Tzu needs to bath weekly if this is tolerable for his particular coat texture, but more preferably, bi-weekly would be a better schedule. Too much bathing will definitely dry out the skin. And of course you will want to bath your Shih Tzu in times of emergency like getting out in the rain and mud or snow, etc.
And so this concludes the series of Life with the Shih Tzu, which does require faithful brushing and grooming. Of course, life with the Shih Tzu has many more advantages and positive experiences. I just wanted to emphasize in this series of articles that grooming is of utmost importance in Life with the Shih Tzu.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1275.shtml
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Jun
27
Posted under
Uncategorized To Clip or Not to Clip your Horse
By: Ron Petracek
There’s a chill in the air and winter is imminent. And just like peanut butter goes with jelly, winter goes hand-in-hand with the age-old question: should I clip my horse, or blanket him?
This is a tough questions, and there is no hard-and-fast rule. The right answer to the question is very individual.
So let’s start with the easiest population first. If you are planning on laying your horse off during the winter?in other words, if winter spells vacation and the most arduous thing your horse does during the winter is eat and sleep and maybe walk a few steps from here to there?the answer is simple. Let your horse’s coat grow. Without interference, the thick, heavy coat most horses grow naturally should keep him nice and warm during the winter months, providing he is just spending time in the barn and pasture.
If you choose to let your horse’s coat grow, whether or not he requires extra blankets will depend upon your horse. Heartier, warm-blooded breeds like the Morgan might only need blanketing in the most inclement of weather, while cold-blooded, thin-skinned breeds like the Thoroughbred will almost certainly need extra blankets.
Now, if your horse works during the winter, you’ll have to think more carefully about whether you clip him or blanket him. Why? Well, no matter how cold the weather the horse’s thick winter coat will cause him to sweat during work. What is the result? A wet coat. Think about yourself for a second, and how you feel after a few hours of arduous play in the snow. You come inside all sweaty and wet, right? And doesn’t it feel great to take all those wet clothes off? Well, the horse has no such option. He’s stuck with his coat! And a horse who stands around in a wet coat is risking illness.
So what to do? If your horse is working during the winter months, it is smart to clip him. But, you say, there are so many clips! Which one to choose? Well, that depends upon how much your horse sweats and the amount of work he’s been given. A good way to go is to start with the most basic clip and go from there.
To simplify, the five clips, in order from most basic to most complicated, are: the pony clip, the trace clip, the blanket clip, the hunter clip, and the full clip.
In the pony clip hair is removed from the neck and chest, the areas that the horse sweats the most.
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A “high” trace clip goes well up the horse’s flanks, while a “low” trace clip ends lower on the horse’s flanks. A blanket clip removes all the hair on the neck and flanks, but leaves a blanket-shaped area over the back and hindquarters. The legs remained unclipped as well. A hunter clip, usually reserved for horses in hard training, leaves hair only on the legs and saddle area. The most extreme clip, most often seen on show horses, is the full clip. This clip removes all hair from the horse’s body.
If you choose to clip your horse, you will have to blanket your horse to make up for the loss of winter coat. But there are so many blankets on the market today. Which one is right for your horse? Easy! Any blanket that keeps your horse warm and dry, actually stays on, and isn’t routinely shredded is the right blanket for your horse. Finding the right blanket is often done by trial and error; talk to others about what has worked on similar horses in similar climates, and go from there.
Stay warm!
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1403.shtml
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Jun
26
Posted under
Uncategorized Why You Should Buy Havanese Dogs
By: Fiona A Kelly
If a person is considering buying a new dog they should consider what type of dog they are buying carefully. There is nothing worse than having an adorable puppy grow into a dog that is inappropriate for the family, especially when a little research would have let them know that before they bought it. Havanese dogs are a great small dog breed for any person seeking a new pet. In fact, Havanese are a great all around type of dog, no matter the size they are compared to. They have a good temperament, are hypoallergenic, and are a very healthy breed. When buying dogs like the Havanese (or any other breed really) a person should make sure that the breed is right for him or her and the person?s family. Adopting or buying dog is a long commitment that should not be taken lightly. Remember, when a person is getting a dog, they are getting a new family member. If a person is thinking about getting a new dog for his or her family, that person may wish to consider the small dog breed called the Havanese dog. This is a dog that originates from breeding in Cuba, and has been made somewhat more famous due to celebrities such as Barbara Walters owning them. This is a very varied type of dog. Havanese dogs may come in many different fur types and colors. In fact, very few colors and fur types and combinations will exclude them from being shown.
The Havanese dog breed is considered a very intelligent and a highly-trainable one. Dog lovers will find many reasons to buy this particular breed. First of all, this dog does not shed so it is considered hypoallergenic, which is great for anyone who is allergic to dogs. Second of all, Havanese dogs have a great temperament and even enjoys playing with children. Third of all, Havanese dogs are considered to be very healthy and most are healthier than the average small breed dog according to reliable Havanese information.
Havanese dogs are considered (like Bichons and poodles) to be a shed-free dog. This means that they shed very little, although they must be brushed. This type of dog is considered to be hypoallergenic because although they have dander, they do not shed it off easily. This adds one bit of work for a pet owner, because that means they must be brushed frequently to avoid damage to their skin and fur.
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Unlike most small dogs, Havanese dogs do not get nervous around people and children. Most children (even fairly young ones) are able to play with this dog easily.
A huge concern among pet owners, particularly among purebred dog owners, is the general health of the dog and the dog breed. Unlike many dog breeds, particularly smaller dog breeds, the Havanese is relatively hardy. The breed overall, is a very healthy one.
Choosing a dog for one’s family can be a very difficult choice. There are many factors a person should consider, many of which they do not even think about until they adopted a dog they are not ready for. One type of dog that is generally a safe choice for most families is the Havanese dog breed. Havanese Dogs are a beautiful small dog breed that fit well into most households and bring joy along with them.
Havanese Dogs fit in with most families so well because of the fact that they do not shed, which makes them hypoallergenic, they are a very good temperament, and even get along with small children. They are a very healthy breed, especially compared to other small dog breeds. In addition to these factors, Havanese Dogs are very trainable smart dogs. Overall, they will fit into almost every household and are an excellent breed of dog.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1457.shtml
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Jun
25
Posted under
Uncategorized The Physical Basis of the Beauty in Peacock Feathers Revealed
By: Harun Yahya
Nobody looking at the patterns in peacock feathers can avoid being amazed at their beauty. One of the latest pieces of research by scientists has revealed that there is an astonishing design at the basis of these patterns.
Chinese scientists have discovered a delicate mechanism of tiny hairs in peacock feathers filtering and reflecting different wavelengths of light. According to a study performed by Fudan University physicist Jian Zi and colleagues, published in the journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, the feathers’ bright colors are produced not by pigments, but by tiny, two-dimensional crystal-like structures. (1)
Zi and his colleagues used powerful electron microscopes to reveal the basis of the colors in the feathers. They examined the barbules of the male green peacock (Pavo rnuticus), in other words the even smaller micro hairs that come off of barbs emerging from the central stem of the feather. Under the microscope, they encountered the lattice design in the black-and-white picture to the right. This consisted of rods made of melanin, a protein, bound together with keratin, another protein. The researchers observed that these two-dimensional structures, each with a width hundreds of times thinner than a human hair, were arranged one behind the other on the micro hairs. Using additional optical examinations and calculations, the scientists examined the spaces between the crystals and their effects. As a result, it was revealed that the dimensions and shapes of these spaces in the lattice led to light being reflected at slightly different angles and thus to a variation in color.
“The male peacock tail contains spectacular beauty because of the brilliant, iridescent, diversified, colorful eye patterns,” said Zi, who continued, “when I watched the eye pattern against the sunshine, I was amazed by the stunning beauty of the feathers.” (2) Zi stated that until their study, the exact physical mechanism producing the colors in peacock feathers had not been known, and that although the mechanisms they had revealed were simple, they were absolutely ingenious.
Obviously, there is a very specially regulated design in peacock feather patterns. The tiny lattices and spaces between them are of the greatest importance in this design. The adjustment between the spaces is particularly striking. Were these not so arranged as to reflect light at slightly different angles to one another, then this variation in color would not take place.
The greater part of the color in the peacock feather is based upon structural coloration. There is no pigment in those parts of the feather that exhibit structural coloration, and colors reminiscent of those on the surface of a soap bubble are able to emerge. The color of human hair comes from pigment, and no matter how much care a person may take of his or her hair, it is never as shiny and beautiful as a peacock feather.
It has also been stated that this intelligent design in the peacock can be a source of inspiration in industrial design. Andrew Parker, a zoologist and coloration expert at the University of Oxford, who interpreted Zi’s findings says that discovering so-called photonic crystals in peacock feathers could allow scientists to adapt the structures for industrial and commercial applications. These crystals could be used to channel light in telecommunications equipment, or to create new tiny computer chips. (3)
It is clear that the peacock has marvelous patterns and a special design, and that thanks to the imitation of this mechanism, maybe in the near future, we shall see objects and accessories covered in the brightest of coatings.
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For example, if we were to encounter marvelous patterns made out of colored stones as we walked beside the edge of a river, and if we also saw that there were eye-like designs arranged like a fan, then we would think that these had been laid out in a conscious manner, and not that they had appeared by chance. It would be evident that these patterns, reflecting an artistic perspective and addressing human aesthetic tastes, had been made by an artist. The same thing applies to peacock feathers. In the same way that pictures and designs reveal the existence of the artists who produced them, the patterns in the peacock feather reveal the existence of the Creator Who made them. There can be no doubt but that it is God Who brought together and arranged the crystal-like structures in the peacock feather and produced such marvelous patterns from them. God reveals His flawless creation in a verse from the Qur’an:
He is God - the Creator, the Maker, the Giver of Form. To Him belong the Most Beautiful Names. Everything in the heavens and Earth glorifies Him. He is the Almighty, the All-Wise. (Qur’an, 59:24)
1- Jian Zi et al, “Coloration strategies in peacock feathers”, PNAS 2003;100 12576-12578; http://www.pnas.org/cgi/content/abstract/100/22/12576?etoc
2- John Pickrell , “Physics Plucks Secret of Peacock Feather Colors”, 17 Ekim 2003, http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2003/10/1016_031017_peacockcolors.html
3- Ibid.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1478.shtml
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Jun
24
Posted under
Uncategorized Your Pets Diet
By: Rupert Bowling
Appetite is largely governed by energy intake and gut fill but can be significantly affected by individual animal tendencies and how tasty the food being offered is. Each animal has a maintenance requirement which is the energy necessary for all the resting bodily functions such as the beating of a heart and the constant action of nerve and muscle fibres. Above this is the requirement for voluntary activity such as running and playing. Every animal has its own rate and efficiency of use for these activities which makes it impossible to create a reliable formula for food requirement. Dogs (and cats to a lesser extent) will eat excessively simply because the food tastes good, a phenomena which gave rise to pet food advertising with statements like “eight out of ten cats prefer it” and the counter advertisement by hills science diet which states below a large photograph of sweets and ice cream that “eight out of ten children may prefer it”.
Types of food vary enormously but can be broken down into those which which are ‘complete’, or those which form only a part of a diet such as ‘mixer’ biscuits. Complete feeds provide all the necessary nutrients discussed below and do not require any additional food provision. Food may also be dry or moist. Traditional feeding was typically based on a canned moist food with mixer biscuits. Many of the earlier dry feeds were poorly balanced and particularly in cats, predisposed them to kidney failure and other problems.
Dry foods are now much improved and many reputable manufacturers provide dry or moist equivalents of the same food brand, the only difference being the moisture content. It is always very important when giving a dry diet to provide adequate fresh water as the requirement is not present in feed. Cystitis can be a problem even in the best balanced dry food if water intake is inadequate.
Dry or crunchy foods also have a significant benefit on cleaning a pets teeth and indeed specific diets such as Hills ‘T/d’ are available for this purpose.
Feeding Regime
The feeding regime is how much and how often our pets are fed. There is an established pattern to feed dogs and cats once daily, but there is little good reason to follow this and indeed twice daily feeding has many benefits. More regular salivation improves dental hygiene, smaller meals are easier to digest, and more frequent feeding reduces boredom and begging problems. Of significant importance in deep chested and large breed of dog is the prevention of gastric bloat and torsion which can be induced by large meals, particularly if followed by exercise. Gastric bloat and torsion is a life threatening emergency requiring immediate veterinary intervention.
Bones and chews.
Vets will almost always advise that bones and often chews are avoided due to frequent problems when large fragments are swallowed. These can obstruct and even perforate the bowel. However, there are benefits with these, particularly to dental health, and some dogs can tolerate large bones very well. Chews such as Rasks, Royal Canin’s Mini Oral Bar and CET chews are a much safer option.
Always consult your own veterinary surgeon before giving bones to a pet. Never give poultry bones, as these often produce sharp fragments when chewed.
Carbohydrates
All food has an energy value. Carbohydrates are essentially sugars and provide a rich source of energy. Simple sugars such as glucose and dextrose are readily available ‘instant-energy’. Starches are readily digested into simple sugars and are derived from potatoes, rice, pasta and other common plant and cereal sources. Starches form a major constituent of many diets as they provide a ready energy source that is more sustained and filling than the simple sugars. Non- digestible carbohydrates form fibre and allow your pet to form a bulky faecal stool. Fibre is generally not broken down by simple stomached animals like dogs or cats, but allows digestion of the other nutrients and formation of a regular, firm, healthy stool. Insufficient dietary fibre can often result in diarrhoea and anal gland problems.
The requirement for carbohydrates is governed by the weight and activity of our pets. Active animals have a greater need, obese animals and often older animals have much less. Specific diets are formulated to meet these needs, such as Royal Canin’s ‘Obesity’ and various geriatric diets. Animals with poor digestion can be helped by a higher fibre, slower digested diet such as Hills i/d. Diabetic animals also are unable to cope well with simple sugars and require a higher fibre food such as Royal Canin’s Diabetic diet, or Hills r/d.
Protein
Protein provides animals with essential building blocks, the amino acids, which go to make up muscles but are present in almost all body tissues. Certain amino acids can be synthesised by the animal itself, others cannot and are termed ‘essential amino acids’. These must be provided in the diet. Sources of protein are traditionally meat but alternatives are available and dogs can have a balanced meat-free diet. Cereals, chicken, fish and soya are common sources of protein.
The protein that our pets eat is largely digested in the bowel and absorbed as the constituent amino acids, which are then broken down and assimilated in the liver and other body tissues. The result is the correct balance of amino acids for the individuals needs, coupled with waste nitrogen products - many of which are excreted through the kidneys.
Kidney failure results in the nitrogen waste products failing to be excreted into the urine. Urea is measured in blood to evaluate kidney failure, which affects about 75% of older cats. These cats still have protein requirement to maintain tissue bulk, often high requirements, but it is essential that only the most readily utilized protein is provided through their diet. Diets such as hills k/d utilize specific ingredients to achieve the correctly balanced diet.
Growing dogs and active sporting dogs will also have greater requirement provided by life stage diets, available from many manufacturers.
Fat
It is essential that diets contain a small amount of fat. Fat provides a more concentrated but less available source of energy than the carbohydrates. This means that a high fat diet can increase obesity but a balanced diet containing fat will satisfy the appetite better than a low fat, high carbohydrate diet.
Essential fatty acids are so termed because like the fat soluble vitamins A, D, and E, they cannot be synthesised by the animal but are necessary for normal healthy skin, immune, hormone, and other body systems. Occasionally supplementation is necessary for dry skin conditions.
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Evening Primrose oil has also been traditionally used as a supplement in many skin disorders If appetite is poor, flavour becomes important and it is fat that adds the flavour to many foods, especially meats. Warming food can also enhance flavour.
Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (EPI) is a disease where the pancreas fails to secrete the enzymes amylase and lipase essential to digest dietry fat. The result is greasy, soft, often white faeces. The disease is especially common in German Shepherd Dogs but can be present in other breeds too. Reducing the fat levels in the diet can help but usually it is necessary to supplement each meal with the deficient enzymes. Products such as Pancrex, Lypex, or Panzym Powder are available for this purpose.
Vitamins And Minerals
Vitamins are essential nutrients without which many normal body functions are impossible. They are either water or fat soluble and must be be present to meet RDA (recommended daily allowance) in any balanced diet. It is not necessary or advisable to supplement a complete diet with vitamins without the advice of your veterinary surgeon.
Minerals are the raw elements which are required in varying quantities and are termed ‘macro’ or ‘micro’ minerals, dependant on the quantity necessary for life.
Macro-minerals include calcium, necessary for development of teeth and bones and present in the body in large quantities. Balanced supplements are available for specific situations such as late pregnancy and suckling young. Supplying individual minerals is not recommended, as each one affects others and unnecessary supplementation may upset a fine natural balance.
Micro-minerals such as copper or selenium are only required in very small amounts and again the correct balance is essential for tissue health and development, as well as normal immune and other functions. Supplementation of micro-minerals is only usually recommended under veterinary supervision.
Vitamin and Mineral Supplements such as SA37 for growth and during lactation can be considered, especially in large breeds, but often it is better to use an appropriate complete life stage diet.
Diarrhoea
There are many causes of diarrhoea; from dietary excess, indiscretion, intolerance and allergies to parasites such as worms or protozoa and infections. Many can be controlled by dietary changes alone, for others specific treatments are necessary. Historically Kaolin has been used as a binding agent but this is not well accepted by most cats or dogs. Now modern treatments that are far more palatable such as Canikur tablets and Canikur granules for cats or smaller dogs are available. Pro-Kolin paste for dogs and cats can be very effective. During recovery from many operations ailments and digestive upsets pro-biotic can be given to help restore the natural bacterial or yeasts present within the digestive tract, Protexin provides a range of products suitable for cats, dogs, rabbits and horses.
While it is generally acceptable to withdraw food for 12-48 hours for pets with diarrhoea adequate provision of fresh clean water must always be available. Whenever diarrhoea persists beyond 1 or 2 days dehydration can be a very serious concern and a proper evaluation should be made by your veterinarian.
Older Animals
Geriatric pets have altered nutritional needs. Often the appetite is reduced and activity can be less but at the same time it is important to ensure adequate mineral vitamin and protein provision to maintain often wasting muscle mass. In many cases specific diets to suit certain geriatric diseases are of paramount importance, and advise in these cases should always be sought from your veterinarian. When animals are old (cats and dogs typically over eight years of age) it may be enough just to adopt a lifestyle diet from one of the established manufacturers such as Hills, Iams, Royal Canin/ Walthon ( RCW ) or Purina.
Special Prescription Diets
Special Prescription Diets are so called because they are generally only provided through a veterinary surgeon. Examples include:-
Kidney diets commonly given to cats with chronic renal failure. These diets contain minimal salt, fat and protein, and the most digestable proteins and carbohydrates. The idea is to minimise the waste products of digestion which create many of the clinical signs of disease, whilst maintaining tissue mass to prevent wasting. Most commercial diets are based on chicken and rice, examples include Hills k/d and Royal Canin Renal diet.
Dental diets aim to maximise chewing and salivation while scaping the surface of the teeth and penetrating the gaps between the teeth. The principal of the diet is to provide the right shape and consistency of biscuit with minimal sugars and deposit. Examples include Hills t/d
Diabetic diets must provide a slowly digested and absorbed carbohydrate source to maintain level blood glucose concentration. This is generally achieved by providing high fibre with low fat and simple sugar levels. Examples include Hills i/d and Royal Canin Diabetic diets.
Sensitivity diets are provided for dogs with food allergies or intolerances. Generally common allergens such as wheat glutens are avoided, there is a high fibre inclusion, and protein and carbohydrate are provided from novel sources. There is a great variety of products available from chicken and rice based foods such as Hills i/d to capelin and tapioca diets and Royal Canins Sensitivity control . Atopy, or allergic skin disease, can also be supported by the use of many of these diets when a veterinarian has diagnosed food allergic dermatitis.
Obesity diets are well provided to contain the minimal calories with the maximum gut-fill. There is usually a very high fibre content, and many have biscuits expanded with air and designed scientifically to swell in the stomach giving a ‘full’ feeling. Examples include Hills r/d and Royal Canin Obesity.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1497.shtml
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Jun
23
Posted under
Uncategorized Cat Behaviour Problems: The Most Common Problem And How To Deal With It
By: Paul Bicknell
Cats make excellent pets and have recently overtaken dogs as Britain?s favourite pet. There are many reasons for this shift but it may well be a reflection of the fact that our lifestyles have become busier and more hectic so we no longer have the time to devote to more demanding pets. Cats need less space, less food, don?t need to be walked twice a day and are generally easier to care for. However they can be prone to behaviour problems which may lead to extremely unpleasant ?deposits? around the home, ruined furniture and limbs covered in bites and scratches. Here is some information regarding the most common cat behaviour problem and some tips to help treat it?
Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ?rubbing it?s nose in it?. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.
The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: -
1. Medical Problems such as:
· Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
· Bacterial Infections
· Tumours
· Kidney Disease
· Liver Disease
Treatment
· Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
· If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.
Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: -
2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:
· Not emptied often enough
· Not clean
· Too many cats using the same box
· Overuse of deodorizers
· Changing the type or brand of the litter
· Changing the location
· Too near to ?frightening? domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine
Treatment
· Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
· Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
· Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant ? there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
· If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it?s own litter box
· Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn?t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
· If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
· Move the box away from the ?frightening? noise or move the appliance that?s causing the problem
· Consider a covered litter box/tray.
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3. Stress/Trauma:
· New cats introduced to the household
· Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
· Workmen carrying out work in the household
· Moving house
· A change in routine e.g. new working hours
· Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
· A new baby
Treatment
· Try to give each cat it?s ?own space? within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
· Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it?s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
· The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
· Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
· A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her
Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ?abusive human behaviour?.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1306.shtml
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Jun
22
Posted under
Uncategorized How To Get Rid Of Raccoons
By: Angelina Diaz
Many of you know that raccoons are known to adapt very easily to a changing environment that is why many people have problems with the damages caused by these creatures. Raccoons have inherited a bad habit: they vandalize garbage cans, fish ponds and also your very own kitchen pantry due to the fact that many houses ( especially in United States ) have a pet door which for a raccoons is like an invitation.
Besides this, raccoons invade attics, chimneys, porches and other similar locations, not to mention that the cities and suburbs offer these creatures a developed underground roadway system for those intelligent animals who use these storm sewers. These raccoons not only invade your privacy but also they cause damage, for example, they can get into crops or just by simply occupying your chimney they make annoying little sounds that eventually will drive you crazy.
The first thing you should do is to find out if you are truly having problems with raccoons because many people have the tendency to affirm that raccoons are the one?s to blame for the damages but in reality, the one?s who should be blamed for causing these problems are dogs, cats or other ?friendly? animals.
If you don?t have the possibility to observe these animals directly the best thing you could do is to identify their tracks. In order to do this you should use the following : flour, nontoxic powders and also cornstarch, these will help you to check out footprints on hard surfaces. A useful tip : raccoons which use chimneys or attics usually begin to make noise when it is getting darker and they stop doing this in the morning, when the sun makes its appearance. The sounds that raccoons make when they are moving can help you detect them more easily. Also, if you hear purring noises then you should know that young cubs are present. Usually, you will hear these noises when their mother comes back to the den.
A wise thing you could do if you have problems with raccoons is simply wait; in other words, many of the problems made by raccoons ( for example: occupation of a building ) resolve themselves within a few weeks or if you are lucky, in a few days. If cubs are also causing you problems then you should know that they won?t leave your attic until they are nine weeks of age because until then, they can?t take care of themselves so they won?t venture in an unknown environment where they will be helpless.
When it comes down to chimneys and attics if yours is uncapped then raccoons will probably use it for denning but also for giving birth and raising cubs. If you assume that after a while they will leave, the best thing you should is that you might try using some harassment techniques so that you could ?hurry? their departure. Also, you might as well leave the attic lights on or place a radio tuned to a talk-show and leave it a high volume.
Once you are certain that you got rid of all the raccoons, the first thing you should do is install an approved chimney cap so that in the future, raccoons won?t be able to invade your privacy.
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When it comes down to yards and gardens, in order to discourage garbage vandalizing you should place cans at the curb when the day of garbage pick-up has arrived. Another thing you could do is that you should secure the lids using bungee cords or weights. Don?t forget that raccoons are often attracted by birdseed and suet and they usually cause a lot of damage to garden fruits and also vegetable gardens , especially corn and grapes. Garden vandalizing will often occur when the foods are ready to be picked so you should be more attentive during those periods.
All in all, raccoons can cause a lot of problems so some safety precautions should be taken in order to avoid these problems which can become very annoying if ignored for a longer period of time.
Summary: Getting rid of raccoons can become a very frustrating thing to do if you don?t take the best decisions. Patience and clever thinking are a ?must? when confronting with such a delicate situation.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1367.shtml
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Jun
21
Posted under
Uncategorized How to Survive (and even enjoy!) Your First Dressage Show Drew Pilton
By: Ron Petracek
Even if you are the most confident, well-prepared of riders, your first dressage show can reduce you to nothing but a bundle of nerves. There is so much to remember, and we’re not talking about just the test! Well, relax, we’ve got everything covered. By the end of this article, you’ll be on your way to realizing your dressage goals in a relaxed, enjoyable manner.
A month before the show:
* Be mentally and physically prepared. Sounds obvious, but too often riders enter their first dressage show without asking themselves the following questions: Do I understand the objectives?rhythm, relaxation, and suppleness?of dressage? Can we ride the required movements in a controlled, accurate manner, and do we consistently do so at home? Does the horse have the ability to stay on task, and is he well-behaved?
* Don’t focus on your nerves. If you wait to compete until you aren’t nervous about it, you’ll never compete. Even top-level dressage riders get nervous. Instead, realize that a healthy case of nerves can keep you focused on the task at hand.
* Read the AHSA rule book. Read it twice! Many riders are eliminated because they haven’t taken the time to read the rule book and inadvertently break a rule. You’ve worked way too hard to let that happen!
* Begin to memorize the test. Know it front and back, inside and out. Walk the test on your own two feet, ride the test on your horse often, draw a diagram and trace it with your finger, and think about it in your head when you are driving and falling asleep. Know it in your sleep, because if you get in the ring and are nervous, it will be the first thing you forget.
* Arrange for someone to read for you. If you suffer from the type of nerves that empties your brain of everything you’ve learned since birth including, unfortunately, the dressage test you’ve memorized, then find a friend or family member who will read it to you.
* Get a good coach. Practice doesn’t make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect. Ride with your instructor as often as you can afford to. Your coach will be able to gauge your position and your ability to use your aids correctly, which will have a direct and very important impact on your horse’s progress.
A week before the test:
* Start paying attention to details. Make sure your equipment is clean and in good working order, and refer to the AHSA rule book to make sure it’s all legal. Be sure your clothes fit. Make a check list of everything you need to bring with you.
The day before the test:
* Give your horse a good once-over. Now is a good time to bathe, clip, and perform other grooming odds and ends. Give your tack trunk and trailer a fairly detailed inspection to determine you’ve packed everything you’ll need.
* Give yourself a good once-over.
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* Visualize the test. The night before your test, banish your nerves by visualizing it in your head. Banish any bad thoughts, and instead concentrate on riding the perfect test in your brain. The next day your brain will feel “experienced,” and that will help!
The day of the test:
* Find a partner-in-crime to attend to the details. This person can check you in, get your number, do last-minute grooming, and make sure that your time is freed up to concentrate on the test at hand.
* Check out the arena. Rules will prohibit you from riding in it, but you may be able to walk it. If this is possible, take advantage and walk the test on foot.
* Give yourself plenty of time to warm up. You want to be on long enough to warm up, but not on so long that you and your horse are tired before the test even begins! Do the same warm-up as you do at home, so something feels familiar!
* Arrive early. Get to the arena well before the whistle blows, and give yourself and your horse a once-over to determine that everything is in order. If you have a friend or family member there, ask them to look you over as well.
* Focus on your horse. And not on your nerves. If you focus on your horse and not yourself, everything will fall into place.
* Bring your sense of humor to the ring. Everything will not be perfect. Be competitive and give your personal best, but keep everything in perspective.
* Enjoy yourself. Enough said!
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1397.shtml
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Jun
20
Posted under
Uncategorized Choosing A Bird Cage - Size Does Matter
By: Terry Edwards
Having a pet bird certainly provides a great deal of enjoyment in our daily lives. Listening to them chirp and sing is a lot of fun for those who love birds. Along with having a pet bird comes the need in having a good quality bird cage.
While you will find all types of bird cages made from everything from plastic to bamboo, the most important aspect will always be having the right size of cage for your pet bird. Here are some tips to help in selecting the best bird cage.
1. Where will you keep the bird cage?
Knowing where you will be keeping the cage in your home will help in knowing how big it should be. You shouldn’t keep it in direct sunlight throughout the day or right next to an ac/heating vent.
2. What size is your bird?
Knowing where your bird cage will be in your home will let you know how big it can be. Now you can select a pet bird. Parakeets, finches and canary’s can all be housed in smaller bird cages without concern over space.
Larger birds such as parrots will require much larger cages to have the extra room they need to move around.
Why is size so important? Birds do not like to be in small, restricted spaces. They become unhappy when they can not at least be able to spread their wings out and walk around. No different than how you would feel being cooped up.
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Buy a good quality bird cage
Instead of cheap plastic, buy a good steel or wooden bird cage. Keep in mind that steel is much easier to maintain than wood, but both can provide durability and life.
Add some toys in the cage to let your bird play and have fun. Don’t forget perches and food trays.
Keep these tips in mind when purchasing your bird cage and you both will be very happy with the results.
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Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1339.shtml
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Jun
19
Posted under
Uncategorized Color Breeding
By: Shannon Margolis
If the paint stud is homozygous for his markings then the foal WILL Have markings. If he is not homozygous, then there is 50/50 chance of the foal being marked like a paint (and 50/50 chance he will just be ordinary coloured).
If the dam only has bay/brown in her colours, and no hidden chestnut, then you have no chance of getting a chestnut foal (with or without paint markings). If both sire and dam are hiding chestnut genes, then they could combine to produce a chestnut foal.
Grey is on a seperate chromosome, so even if you can figure out whether or not the foal will be paint, or not paint, or chestnut or bay or brown - the grey is dominant. And it is entirely dominant, so mum only has ot pass down one grey gene (dad doesnt have one at all, if he did he too would be grey due to its dominance).
If mum is homozygous for grey, then she HAS to pass one down to foal and the foal WILL end up grey itself. If the mare is only heterozygous for grey (eg has only one grey gene)then there is a 50/50 chance of her passing it down to the foal or not and if it is then it will override all the other colour p[ossibilities in the end anyway. Eg the foal may start out a bay paint, but will be ‘going grey’. Or it may be a solid chestnut to begin with, but will be ‘going grey’ (therefore classified as grey).
I had a grey arab welsh cross mare.
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My grey mare may have been chestnut before she went white (but I didn’t know for sure, I only know that she had to have at least one chestnut gene because her previous foal had been born chestnut, so the foal got chestnut genes from both her sire and dam).
Anyway not knowing the mares history, the possibilities for the foal were
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1467.shtml
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Jun
18
Posted under
Uncategorized Show Dog Judging The Head, Body And Hindquarters
By: Connie Limon
The Head:
The show dog judge will ask you to place your Shih Tzu show dog on the table. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will then get the first close look at your Shih Tzu?s expression. He will be looking for proper shape and dark eyes. He will check the length of your Shih Tzu?s nose. He will look for the ?correct? slightly-undershot bite. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will evaluate the shape of the top of your Shih Tzu?s head. He will check to see that the hair pulled up in the topknot does not alter the set and placement of the ears (all these things must be exact to the AKC standard for a Shih Tzu show dog to pass). One thing in particular the Shih Tzu show dog judge will not want to see in your Shih Tzu is any sign of fear, or if your Shih Tzu turns its head away. The expressions of fear or turning the head away would indicate ?shyness.? ?Shyness? would be considered a fault of the AKC show Dog Shih Tzu standard.
The Shih Tzu show dog judge will look at the ear leather. He may raise the ears to check the length and thickness of the neck and to see if the neck is well placed on the shoulders. These are areas also that must be in compliance with the AKC standards of a Shih Tzu show dog. The Shih Tzu show dog judge may trace the angulation of the shoulders with his hands and the placement of the front legs beneath the body is checked. A Shih Tzu show dog judge may lift the dog up gently and let it down to see how well the Shih Tzu lands on its feet. He may check the thickness of the pads of the feet as well.
The Body:
The Shih Tzu show dog judge will check to see if the Shih Tzu is in good weight, not to thin or too fat. The weight is measured on a scale of 9 to 16 pounds as being appropriate for the Shih Tzu show dog. Under or over this weight would be a fault.
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