Archive for April, 2008
Apr
30
Posted under
Uncategorized Color Breeding
By: Shannon Margolis
If the paint stud is homozygous for his markings then the foal WILL Have markings. If he is not homozygous, then there is 50/50 chance of the foal being marked like a paint (and 50/50 chance he will just be ordinary coloured).
If the dam only has bay/brown in her colours, and no hidden chestnut, then you have no chance of getting a chestnut foal (with or without paint markings). If both sire and dam are hiding chestnut genes, then they could combine to produce a chestnut foal.
Grey is on a seperate chromosome, so even if you can figure out whether or not the foal will be paint, or not paint, or chestnut or bay or brown - the grey is dominant. And it is entirely dominant, so mum only has ot pass down one grey gene (dad doesnt have one at all, if he did he too would be grey due to its dominance).
If mum is homozygous for grey, then she HAS to pass one down to foal and the foal WILL end up grey itself. If the mare is only heterozygous for grey (eg has only one grey gene)then there is a 50/50 chance of her passing it down to the foal or not and if it is then it will override all the other colour p[ossibilities in the end anyway. Eg the foal may start out a bay paint, but will be ‘going grey’. Or it may be a solid chestnut to begin with, but will be ‘going grey’ (therefore classified as grey).
I had a grey arab welsh cross mare.
All About Breeding Labradors
...
All About Breeding Labradors
...
All About Breeding Labradors
...
Breeding Guinea Pigs
...
Color Breeding
...
My grey mare may have been chestnut before she went white (but I didn’t know for sure, I only know that she had to have at least one chestnut gene because her previous foal had been born chestnut, so the foal got chestnut genes from both her sire and dam).
Anyway not knowing the mares history, the possibilities for the foal were
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1467.shtml
.
Apr
30
Posted under
Uncategorized Pick Me! Why A Shelter Dog Is Your Best Choice
By: Emma Snow
Disney left a life-long impression on me when, as a youngster, I viewed the dog pound scene in Lady and the Tramp. Mournful mutts howled out a pitiful rendition of ?Home Sweet Home,? which nobody but the most callous could sit through dry-eyed. The pound was portrayed as a cruel place manned by heartless dog-catchers. I vowed never to step foot in one, not even to save the life of one of the rejected creatures. Adopting a pet under such sad conditions would certainly place a cloud over the day. Could I ever leave completely happy with the dog I chose, knowing that dozens were left behind in misery?
My answer today is a resounding YES! From personal experience I have learned that animal shelters can indeed be the very best place to find your companion. As a volunteer in college I found that humane societies and animal shelters can be places of compassion, and the animals, while lonely, are happy, healthy, and not nearly as desperate as Disney made them out to be.
There are plenty of good reasons for bringing a dog home from ?the pound.? In this article I?ll discuss just a few of them.
Typically, when a family decides to adopt a dog, they check the pet store, the newspaper, and maybe the neighborhood for a puppy. More often than not, this spells disaster. While unarguably cute, puppies are not for everyone. Puppies, no matter what breed, take lots of time, money, and patience. Unless you are prepared to deal with urine spots on the carpet, sleepless nights, and hundreds of dollars in pet-related equipment and veterinarian bills (not to mention replacing chewed up clothing), you are not prepared for a puppy! In fact, this is the very reason animal shelters are filled to capacity. Puppies grow up fast and their newness wears off, and all too many owners find themselves too frazzled to continue. Thus, Fido ends up behind bars for no fault of his own. The vast majority of dogs in shelters are there because people weren?t thinking about the time, effort, and money involved in raising a dog. (Other common reasons are families relocating, owner?s deaths, or divorces that leave a dog in the mix.)
Think twice before bringing home a pup. An older dog is calmer, will pick up housetraining (and other obedience training) faster, and have outgrown the frustrating chew stage. Perhaps the best thing of all is that they are more predictable; what you see is what you get. With adult dogs the size, shape, skills, and temperament have already been determined. Depending on the shelter, they may even have a pet history!
Another reason to avoid pet-finding in pet stores and newspapers is that these places are largely supplied by backyard breeders and puppy mills, notorious for breeding unhealthy animals in inhumane conditions. The best way to shut down these operations is to avoid supporting them. While they may boast purebreds for low prices, a mixed breed mutt has much lower incidence of health defects than poorly bred purebreds. (Adoption days at places like PetSmart are run by shelters, and not supplied by puppy mills.
How To Pick a Dog from the Shelter
...
Consider Bringing A Shelter Dog Home
...
How To Adopt A Shelter Cat - Your New Cat Will Thank You For Reading This Article
...
Volunteering at a Local Animal Shelter
...
Pick Me! Why A Shelter Dog Is Your Best Choice
...
Petfinder.org lists dogs by specific breeds, a great tool if you know what you are looking for!)
Cost is also another reason that shelter dogs come out on top. For a nominal fee, you bring home a dog that is up-to-date on vaccinations, has had a general health exam, and has been sterilized. Often the fee may include the cost of microchipping and licensing. Sometimes you even score coupons for free food and equipment on Adoption Days! Keep in mind that no dog is ever ?free.? You should always have a new pet checked by a veterinarian to avoid the spread of disease. Having your pet spayed or neutered is a pet-owner?s responsibility not to be postponed. Heartworm treatments, chew toys, and other necessary equipment add up. It?s hard to beat the all-inclusive fee offered by a shelter.
But perhaps the best reason to adopt a shelter dog is the values it teaches your children. Bring home an older dog, and you send the message that all creatures have intrinsic worth, not just the ?cute babies.? Giving a dog a second home teaches another fabulous lesson, and dogs who have suffered losses often bond faster to their new people, eager to belong again. Children appreciate knowing about second chances. Finally, when you bring home a shelter dog you save the life of a dog whose only alternative may be euthanasia. 60% of animals placed in shelters meet this fate. By including children in this important decision-making process, making careful choices, and being a responsible pet owner, you teach children the best lesson of all.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1355.shtml
.
Apr
29
Posted under
Uncategorized What The Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part Ii: Getting To Know Grooming Equipment
By: Connie Limon
If you don?t have good equipment there is no way you will have a well groomed Shih Tzu. As with all jobs, proper tools are essential to doing a job well.
Clippers
One of the most important pieces of equipment is the clipper. For a Shih Tzu owner grooming only one Shih Tzu, one of the best is Oster with snap-on blades. The blades can be changed easily. Various blades needed are No. 10, No. 7 and No. 4. No. 10 will give you a complete shave down. No. 7 blade will give you not so close of a cut as the No. 10. No 4 blade will give you the stylish puppy cut that so many Shih Tzu pet owners like for their pet Shih Tzu.
Combs
You will need a fine-toothed comb and a medium-toothed comb. You will also need a very tiny comb to comb the hair on the face. Combs with metal handles are more durable.
Brushes
The brush is very important. While the professional groomer who grooms all the breeds will need a variety of brushes, the Shih Tzu owner will need the proper brushes for a Shih Tzu. A soft wire slicker brush is the best for fluff-drying.
What The Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part I
...
What the Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part II: Getting to Know Grooming Equipment
...
What The Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming Part Ii: Getting To Know Grooming Equipment
...
Shih Tzu Owners Should Have a Basic Knowledge of Grooming
...
What the Shih Tzu Owner Should Know About Grooming, Part III
...
The hard wire slicker is used to remove mats. A pin brush is used for tidying the long hair of a Shih Tzu. It cannot be used for ?hard? brushing. If your Shih Tzu?s hair is fine, you can use a natural-bristle brush made of boar bristles. A vegetable brush or toothbrush can be used on all the places that are hard to get at, especially on the face, around and between the eyes of the Shih Tzu.
Use a spray conditioner when brushing your Shih Tzu?s hair. The conditioner should have a lanolin base and should not contain alcohol. Alcohol can discolor and dry out the hair of the Shih Tzu. If you do not have the correct type on hand, use plain water in a spray bottle. When you use coat conditioner or water when brushing your Shih Tzu?s hair, you will prevent static electricity and causing the hair to break.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1381.shtml
.
Apr
28
Posted under
Uncategorized Respiratory Problems In Labrador Retrievers
By: Richard Cussons
Problems associated to respiratory or breathing may occur in Labrador Retrievers. Whether it may be just a simple sneezing problem or a cough caused by heart problem, these health issues should be addressed immediately to prevent it from progressing into a more serious disease that could threaten the life of your ever loyal friend.
Sneezing/nasal discharge
Sneezing and nasal discharge is common in Labrador Retrievers as well as other breeds. It may be caused by minor conditions like hay fever, a foreign object lodged in the nose or by major problems like canine nasal tumors. Dogs also sneeze when they wake up or if they are just laying on their backs. Sneezing itself is not an illness but could be a sign of an illness. A blood coming out of your dog’s nose may be a sign of canine nasal tumor or may be just a foreign object lodged in his nasal cavity. Seek veterinary help immediately to diagnose the underlying cause.
Breathing problems
There are some circumstances wherein a dog may experience difficulty in breathing. There are various reasons for this predicament. Reasons for this breathing difficulties include physical obstructions preventing normal air intake, chest injury, pneumonia, tumors, heart failure, poisoning, an allergic reaction, pain, smoke inhalation, heatstroke and damaged lung or diaphragm. Rapid and shallow breathing may just be a response to conditions like shock whereas labored breathing may be a sign of heart failure or tumor. Noisy breathing may indicate that there may be an obstruction or foreign object present.
Coughing
Cough is not unusual to dogs. It could be caused by allergy, pollution, infection or foreign material in the air passages. Other causes include inhalation or ingestion of poisonous substances, fluid in the chest cavity, worms, heart conditions, chest diseases or injuries.
Respiratory Problems In Labrador Retrievers
...
Respiratory Problems In Labrador Retrievers
...
Poison In Labrador Retrievers
...
Poison In Labrador Retrievers
...
Labrador Rescue ? Denver, Colorado
...
Cough in dogs may be contagious if it is caused by the bacterium Bordatella bronchiseptica. This condition is referred to as canine cough or kennel cough. Canine cough is characterized by a harsh, dry cough that lasts for about five days after contact with a carrier of the disease. This cough causes loss of appetite, depression and nasal discharge as well. Vaccine against Bordatella should be administered to prevent your dog from acquiring this disease.
If you suspect that your dog is having problems related to breathing or respiratory, consult your vet immediately for diagnosis and proper treatment.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1505.shtml
.
Apr
27
Posted under
Uncategorized Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
By: Kate Tilmouth
You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat.
A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.
Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.
An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway.
Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
...
Adopt A Pet
...
Adopting a New Pet - Dogs
...
Adopting a Shih Tzu - Puppy or Adult?
...
Why You Should Adopt a Pet
...
There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.
Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.
Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.
It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1417.shtml
.
Apr
26
Posted under
Uncategorized The User-Friendly Farm
By: Ron Petracek
Horse people spend countless hours managing their horse facilities. Who doesn’t dream of living on the perfect user-friendly farm? It would certainly give all of us a lot more time to enjoy riding! Think it’s impossible? It’s not! We are going to help you take the steps to create a farm you, and your horses, can really live with.
But don’t reach for the hammer and nails quite yet. The most important part of planning the perfect facility is considering a few important factors first. These factors are:
* Budget. Determine a price range before you start building.
* Needs. Are you a large-scale breeder or do you run a small hunter-jumper barn? Obviously one’s priorities are going to be different from the other’s. Make three lists: what you can’t live without, what it would be nice to have if you’ve got a few pennies left over, and what you would have if you won the lottery.
When coming up with your plan, you’ll want to consider your barn, your pastures, and your fencing. If you plan on having extras like an arena you’ll want to think about them during the planning phase as well.
The Barn
There are as many barns as there are horse people! What will your barn be like? Well, it goes without saying that it will be warm, dry, well-ventilated, well-lit, and well-drained. Where you go from there depends upon how many horses you need to stable, the purpose of the stable, and how you like your stable run.
You will need at least as many 12 x 12 stalls as you have horses. If you have a breeding facility and want to accommodate mares and foals, you’ll want your stalls to be larger. If you are a show horse barn a wash stall where you can wash, groom, and clip your horse might rank quite high on your list. A facility that specializes in instruction might benefit from a heated tack room with viewing area. If you have staff an office, kitchen, and bathrooms might be necessary. At any rate, you get the picture! Plan you barn with the way you intend to use it in mind.
How you lay out your barn will depend upon your lifestyle, as well as your philosophies on horsekeeping. If you are not home during the day, you may want your barn’s stalls to open up to individual paddocks. If you have a large facility you may find that automatic waterers and feeders really cut down on your time. If you have a lot of traffic to your farm in the form of vets, feed trucks, and farriers, you will want them to be able to access your barn, and horses, as easily as possible.
The User-Friendly Farm
...
3 Tips When Choosing The Child Friendly Soft Coated Wheaten Dog
...
Visit an Arowana Farm to Experience Excellence in Operation
...
The Catnip Miracle
...
Finding Pet Friendly Bed and Breakfast Inns
...
Horses who live outside 24/7 will need more pasture area that horses who receive a limited amount of turnout per day.
How should you set your pasture up? Again, that depends upon what your facility is used for. If you own only mares and geldings, one or two pastures may suffice. If you have stallions you will obviously need one pasture per stallion, and those with mares and foals will also need special enclosures. Your turnout areas should always be equipped with shelter and a fresh water supply. Depending upon your circumstances and geographical location, you may determine that automatic waterers and heating elements are priorities.
Fencing
Rule number one: fencing must be safe! Once you’ve gotten used to that idea, the fencing you choose will be dependent upon your budget, personal preference, and how much time you are willing to spend on its upkeep. Wire electric fencing is the least expensive but also the least aesthetically pleasing. It requires moderate upkeep. Wooden fencing is beautiful, but is more expensive than wire and requires significant upkeep. PVC fencing has the beauty of wood and little or no upkeep, but it costs significantly more than wood.
* * * * *
Now that you’ve determined your budget and needs, you are ready to really start planning a user-friendly farm. Our final piece of advice? Get out there and look at facilities with needs and interests similar to yours, and not what you like and don’t like about them. Good luck building your user-friend facility!
Thanks for stopping by again.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1400.shtml
.
Apr
25
Posted under
Uncategorized Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease in Dogs
By: Jonni Good
Canine parvovirus, sometimes known simply as ‘parvo,’ is a serious contagious disease caused by a virus. This illness is spread when dogs come into contact with the feces of infected animals. Dog parks, highway rest stops and popular walking trails in cities are areas where dog feces are often found, and where an unvaccinated dog may pick up the virus. Humans may also unknowingly bring the virus home on the bottom of their shoes or on their car tires, so dogs who never go outside the yard can still be infected with this disease. The virus can live in the soil or other contaminated surfaces for as long as six months.
Most animal shelters and kennels make every effort to avoid the spread of contagious diseases by cleaning the kennels with bleach, but any time that large numbers of animals are kept in close quarters, there is a possibility of infection, so keeping up on your dog’s vaccinations is always a good idea.
Although puppies are more commonly affected by this illness than adult dogs, both my brother and I once owned adult dogs who became seriously ill from canine parvovirus. Both animals had been vaccinated while in our care, but they were acquired after the dogs had reached adulthood, so they may not have received proper vaccination as puppies. Both dogs recovered, but only after several weeks of intensive in-hospital care.
Since this virus attacks the lining of the dog or puppy’s digestive system, the symptoms of the disease are diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite, and bloody, foul-smelling stools. In addition to severe abdominal discomfort, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, the dog may also have a high fever, and congestive heart failure is possible. Severe symptoms may follow several days of gradually decreasing appetite. Illness usually becomes apparent from three to 12 days after the dog was exposed to the virus.
Obviously, this is a very serious disease, and immediate medical care is required to reduce the risk of death. The veterinarian will make sure to keep the dog from becoming dangerously dehydrated, which can keep the dog or puppy alive long enough for its own immune system to fight the disease. Antibiotics are not effective against this virus, but they are usually given to an infected animal to help prevent the occurrence of secondary bacterial infections, which can cause shock or septicemia.
Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease In Dogs
...
Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease in Dogs
...
Parvovirus and Your New Maltese Puppy
...
Canine Viral Hepatitis - Diagnosis Of Dog Diseases
...
Let’s Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!
...
A blood test showing a low white blood cell count is one of the ways a veterinarian can make a diagnosis of canine parvovirus.
Because the illness causes severe dehydration, the dog will also be put on intravenous fluids, and the animal will probably need to stay under the doctor’s care a week or more. Because the gastrointestinal tract has been affected, the veterinarian may withhold food and water from the dog until the virus has come under control.
Unfortunately, some dogs and puppies who survive a bout of parvovirus can be affected by symptoms six months or more after the original symptoms, particularly if the virus has infected the heart.
To prevent infection, puppies must be vaccinated under the proper schedule, and they should not be taken outside the yard or introduced to any other dogs until at least two weeks after the last puppy shots are administered. Some veterinarians and dog breeders suggest that you avoid dog parks entirely, even after your puppy has been vaccinated, because of the possibility of picking up this or other contagious canine illnesses. If you adopt an older dog from the local shelter, you should take him to your veterinarian for a checkup and ask that he be vaccinated, unless the shelter administered routine vaccinations while the dog was in their care.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1420.shtml
.
Apr
24
Posted under
Uncategorized Training With Treats: Do It Right!
By: Marc Goldberg
Hey even I?m willing to learn new things if there?s a broiled lobster in it for me.
When I?m hungry that is.
If I?m not hungry, or if I?m so distracted that a lobster won?t tempt me, then I?ll blow you off to continue doing what I want, not what you want.
That?s pretty much how your dog sees the issue when you train with food. If he?s hungry at the moment, and if there?s nothing more compelling going on, food can be a great way to reinforce behaviors you teach your dog. On the other hand, if Fido isn?t food motivated, or if he?s got something ?better? to do, he won?t be interested.
Nonetheless, training with food has its benefits when used as a motivator and a reward. For those dogs who just aren?t normally interested in treats, you can substitute play with a toy if that motivates them.
The first thing you have to know about using food in training is how NOT to use it. The primary rule is not to use it to stop an unwanted behavior. Instead, use it to create a new behavior you want to teach.
With those rules in mind, you won?t teach your dog to stop growling at other dogs by using food. But you may be able to teach him to sit more quickly if there?s something tasty in it for him.
Before I tell how you to deliver food treats when training, let me tell you WHY you should not use food to try and stop an unwanted behavior. The answer is because you can accidentally reinforce the very behavior you?re trying to stop.
For example, let?s say Fido growls at other dogs on his walks. If you tell him to stop growling, and distract him with a treat, what has he really learned?
Here?s what YOU?RE thinking?he stopped growling so I rewarded him for that with a cookie. He won?t growl again.
Here?s what FIDO is thinking?this is cool, I growl, then mom pops me a cookie. Let?s see if this works?let?s growl more!
Think of food as a directional reward.
Giving Your Dog Treats
...
Baking Your Own Homemade Dog Treats
...
Homemade Dog Treats And Your Kids
...
Tasty Treats That Dogs Love
...
Dog Treats
...
For example, you tell Fido to sit, and you hold a treat six inches over his head, while pushing down on his butt.
Sound about right? Wrong! By holding that treat six inches over his head, you?re really teaching Fido to sit then immediately break that position in favor of jumping up to get the cookie.
Instead, start Fido standing on a closely held leash. Show him you have a cookie, by holding it at nose level?only an inch from his sniffer– while he?s standing up. Direct his attention, and nose, slightly higher by raising the cookie only enough so that he must tend toward a sit to view it. While he?s focusing upward only a couple of inches over his nose, use your other hand to push his butt down, while your cookie hand keeps the treat only a couple of inches from his nose as it moves.
As soon as he is sitting, deliver the treat to him just slightly above nose level, and slightly toward his rear. This means that to collect the treat, Fido must actually lean back into the sit more to reach it.
Mission accomplished! Food hasn?t been just randomly delivered to your dog, leaving him wondering why he got it. Instead, the food has clearly communicated how he can get this treat even faster next time, by sitting when you ask.
Anyone getting hungry?
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1274.shtml
.
Apr
23
Posted under
Uncategorized 6 Things You Should Not Do When You Have A New Puppy In The Home
By: Dr. Mayra Alfonso
Everyone agrees that training a puppy is imperative for him to learn how to behave and to teach him his boundaries, but there are some basic tips you need to know before starting your dog training. Magazines, books and online articles addressing the basics of acquiring a new puppy abound. They may all sound repetitive, and a lot of the tips and advice are actually simple and requires common sense, but they are vital nonetheless.
When you bring home a new puppy, keep in mind these 6 things you should avoid doing:
1. Never hit your puppy, whether with your hand or with a rolled up newspaper or any other object, regardless of what he does. Keep in mind that your puppy is like a baby — it is very delicate and is easily injured. Hitting your puppy will only frighten him and be a traumatic experience for him that can possibly lead to behavioral issues when he is fully grown. Remember that being taken away from his mother and litter mates is a traumatic and scary enough experience for him so be a little patient with this new addition to your family. Your puppy will probably whine for a few days, but he will soon get used to his new family, and will give you all his love and loyalty.
2. If you have objects in your house that you cherish or have sentimental value, keep them out of your puppy’s reach. Your puppy, and all puppies for that matter, will eat everything it can get its mouth on. If you want to keep your socks free from holes, don’t leave them laying on the floor or in places where your puppy can easily reach them. If you smoke, don’t throw the cigarette butts on the floor; your puppy won’t think twice about chewing on those. The same goes for any gadgets you have that can be easily scratched and damaged.
3. Don’t let other people, family members included, handle your new puppy — at least for the first couple of weeks or so. It is better that you and another family member handle the new puppy first. If too many people are handling the puppy, he may become nervous and have problems socializing.
Puppy Proofing Your Home
...
6 Things You Should Not Do When You Have A New Puppy In The Home
...
Before You Bring Your New Pit Bull Puppy Home: Dog Owner Advice
...
Pit Bull Puppy Potty Training: 7 Important Things to Watch
...
Making Your Home Safe For Your New Puppy
...
Avoid picking up the new puppy by his forelegs. Children tend to pick puppies up this way so if you have kids in your house, tell them they should not pick up the new puppy this way. Your puppy’s legs are not strong yet and if he can get injured if he is picked up by the forelegs.
5. Don’t leave holes inside your house uncovered. Puppies are incredibly curious and they will literally try to get into everything. It can be fatal if your puppy gets stuck in a hole.
6. Don’t leave electrical wires uncovered or accessible to your puppy. Cover any exposed wires in your house because your puppy won’t spare those. Many puppies have died from electrocution because the house they were living in were not puppy-proof.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1542.shtml
.
Apr
22
Posted under
Uncategorized Orphaned Kittens
By: Anita Hampton
Should I take in an abandoned kitten?
Be certain kittens are really abandoned before you disturb a nest.
A momcat can be harder to spot than the stealth bomber, but just because she?s not there now doesn?t mean she?s not around. If the kittens are clean, plump, and sleeping quietly in a heap, odds are that they?ve got an attentive mom and should be left alone.
Abandoned kittens will be dirty and the nest will be soiled, and they will cry continuously because they?re hungry.
Ideally, kittens should not be taken from the mother until they are 5 to 6 weeks of age.
However, kittens born to feral mothers should be taken away, if possible, at about 4 weeks old. At this age, it is easy to tame them and they have gotten 4 weeks’ worth of the precious antibodies mother’s milk provides. As they get older, it gets increasingly harder to tame them; kittens over the age of 8 weeks who have had no human contact will probably take months to tame .
if it can be done at all.
Warmth and First-Aid
If a rescued kitten feels cold, warm it immediately, but gently.
Place it on a heating pad wrapped in towels and on the lowest setting, or warm a hot water bottle to about 100 degrees (wrapped in a towel) and place it with the kitten. Many veterinarians have incubators to warm a chilled kitten.
Do not feed a kitten until it is warm, since it can’t properly digest when cold. It is okay, though, to syringe feed a few drops of 5% sugar water or to rub a little bit of Karo syrup on the kittens? lips.
Kittens under 3 weeks can?t control their body temperature. Keep them on a heating pad, set on low, wrapped in towels (at least 2 layers of towels– or one towel folded over– should cover the pad.
You’ll know if it’s too hot if the kittens tend to sleep on the edges.
The heating pad should be used until the kittens are about 4-5 weeks old, or until you notice that they’re avoiding it. An alternative that many fosters prefer is a heat lamp over the kitten nest.
Kittens should be kept in a box or cat carrier in a warm, draft-free place, completely isolated from other animals. Keep the container covered with a towel or blanket; a small towel or cloth inside the carrier will also keep them cozy. Change the bedding of their “nest” daily, since kittens tend to have accidents! As they get older, they will need more room to exercise, play, and explore. A spare bathroom is ideal for this.
It is a very, very, very smart idea to take them immediately to a veterinarian to be checked for dehydration and general condition.
Bring a stool sample if possible to be tested for worms and parasites.
Young kittens are always at risk for being dehydrated and it can happen very quickly; a dose of fluids injected under skin is necessary in this case.
Ask your vet or vet technician to show you how to do it. This will be convenient if your kitten becomes dehydrated rapidly or in the middle of the night. Even the most squeamish fosters have mastered this and it’s not as horrible as it sounds. Really.
Many vets will give you a courtesy (free) office visit if you tell them this is a rescued kitten you are fostering; their staff can give you lots of advice and supplies along the road as well. Don’t skip this step!
You can also contact your local shelter or rescue group and ask if you can become an official “foster parent” through their organization as you raise your kitten. Many of these organizations help cover the cost of necessary medical care as the kitten grows towards adoptable age.
If you’re planning to raise your kitten (s) yourself, the best idea is to find a “foster” momcat who is still nursing. Your local animal shelter and rescue organizations will probably be able to help you with this.
Why is this so crucial? The immunity against disease that mother’s milk provides kittens lasts until they are 6 to 14 weeks old. Kittens who don’t get this immunity (from their mom’s antibodies) are at a huge disadvantage and you might be in for a great deal of medical care. Local shelters and rescue groups can help you place the momcat after the kittens are weaned.
Feeding
Unfortunately, cow?s milk is not nutritious enough for kittens–they will slowly starve to death on it. If you can’t get to a pet store right away, see our Web page for emergency kitten formulas, we also have some good info on that page with more care tips for the kitten.
Your first purchase should be a pet nursing kit and kitten formula, available at pet stores. The nursing kit usually includes a bottle, several extra nipples, and a cleaning brush. Cut an “X” in the tip of your first nipple with scissors.
You know that you have made the nipple opening just big enough if, when the bottle is held upside-down, formula drips slowly from it. Too small an opening will make kittens work too hard to get their formula, tiring them out before they’ve had enough to eat. Too large an opening will force too much formula into them too fast.
Before each feeding, sterilize the bottles and nipples by boiling them in water. Formula should be warmed to room temperature. You can do this by microwaving it in the bottle for no longer than 10 seconds (never let it boil), or placing the bottle in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes.
Before each feeding, you should also sterilize your hands with antibacterial sanitizer or water with a touch of bleach added. It’s a good idea to re-sterilize after you’re done with the kittens each time. This way, the kittens and your own pets will be protected against one another’s germs. An alternative to this is to purchase a box of latex surgical gloves and use a new pair for each feeding.
Many fosters like to keep a special t-shirt, sweatshirt, or apron in the room where the kittens are kept, and slip it on before feeding. Some viruses can live on clothing!
Kitten positioning for feeding is very important; this is where the crucial surrogate-mom bonding happens. Different people have different “styles” of bottle-feeding. Kittens are most comfortable in a position similar to the position they’d be in if they were nursing from a momcat.
One position is simply to place the kitten on its stomach on a towel or cloth on which it can cling; it will “knead” its paws on instinct. You can also sit cross-legged on the floor with the kitten inside your legs, and let the kitten place its paws on your leg as it nurses. Remember to keep a towel on your lap for this– and use a fresh, clean towel each day.
Open the mouth gently with the tip of your finger and slip the nipple in.
Once your kitten gets the hang of it, they will search out the nipple enthusiastically!
You will feel a real “vacuum effect” when the kitten gets into suckle mode.
To keep air from getting into the kitten’s stomach, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle. The kitten should be allowed to suck at its own pace.
If a kitten refuses to take the nipple or won’t suckle, try rubbing it vigorously on its forehead or stroking its back. This replicates the activity of a momcat’s cleaning and can effectively stimulate the kitten to nurse.
Sometimes you will hear a “clicking” noise which means the kitten’s nursing instinct is in gear and should be ready for the nipple. Sometimes a kitten is simply picky; there are two kinds of nipples out there, one shorter and one longer, so you might have to make sure they don’t prefer one or the other.
Kittens who seem too weak to nurse can often be stimulated by rubbing some Karo syrup on the lips. If a kitten still refuses to nurse, and this happens beyond the first few “getting the hang of it” times, it indicates illness and you must take the kitten to a vet immediately.
Kittens have been known to accidentally suck formula into the lungs; if this happens, hold the kitten upside down until it stops choking.
A kitten should eat about 8cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight per day; nursing bottles are marked with measurements so it’s easy to keep track.
Weigh the kittens daily or every other day to calculate the amount of formula they need; a kitchen or small postal scale should be used. Kittens under one week old should be fed every 2 - 3 hours; at two weeks old they can be fed every 4 - 6 hours; after three weeks old, until they are weaned, they should be fed every 6 - 8 hours.
Divide their needed daily intake by the number of required daily feedings, and you’ll know how much they should eat each time. Kittens who are extra weak or recovering from a “crash” may need to eat more frequently.
Keep in mind that the younger kittens are, the more accustomed they are to staying “latched onto” a momcat’s nipple all the time, nursing small amounts periodically. If you notice that your kittens are not eating enough in one feeding, increase the frequency of feedings.
If you’re feeding multiple kittens, you’ll have better luck with them eating the required amount if you feed them each several times, taking turns.
Feed the first kitten until it stops nursing, feed the second, etc.
Then go back to the first and repeat this round-robin. Usually after 2 or 3 nursing turns, a kitten has had enough for one feeding.
When a kitten has had enough formula, it will usually get some bubbles around its mouth and its tummy will be very rounded to give it a real “Bartlett Pear” shape. After feeding, you should burp the kitten just like you’d burp a human baby; hold it upright against your shoulder and pat it on the back. Do not overfeed kittens, since this can cause diarrhea and a host of other problems.
Saving Orphaned Shih Tzu Puppies
...
Health Problems In Puppies
...
Orphan Puppies - How to Take Care of Them (Part 2)
...
No More Stillborn Kittens - Know How To Care For A Pregnant Cat
...
Tips on How To Pick A Kitten From The Litter
...
It’s natural for kittens to suckle on each other or on your fingers, even after they’re finished eating. This is harmless unless you notice that this kind of activity is causing irritation to other kittens’ fur or skin.
Stimulation and Litter Box Training
By nature, momcats lick the “back end” of their babies to stimulate the bowels and bladder on a regular basis. If you are the babies’ new momcat, guess who gets this duty! After each feeding, gently rub the kitten on its low abdomen, as well as the genitals and rectum, with a cotton ball, cotton pad, or tissues moistened with warm water. Make sure you rub only enough to get them to eliminate; over stimulation will irritate the area. Keep an eye out for chafing and lingering dirt.
Kittens should (and almost always will) urinate during each stimulation.
They should defecate at least once a day. One trick is to slowly count to 60 while you’re stimulating a kitten; at that point, you’ll know if they’re done or if something’s on its way out!
When kittens get to be about four weeks old, they are usually ready to experience the wonderful world of litter boxes (and you’ll be liberated from stimulation duty!). After each meal, put the kitten in the box and see what transpires. If they don’t get it right away, try taking its paw and showing it how to scratch in the litter. They’ll catch on before you know it!
Cleaning and Flea Control
After each feeding session, you should also give them a full-body once- over with a barely damp washcloth, using short strokes like a momcat would use. This keeps their fur clean, teaches them how to groom, and gives them the attention and “mothering” they crave.
Kittens will often get very dirty and mucked-up in between cleanings; it’s okay to wash a kitten under a sink faucet, but try to focus only on the areas where they need it. A simple “butt-bath” will usually do the trick, but if you must get a kitten wet over more than half of its body, it’s safe to dry kittens over one week old with a hair dryer set on low and used carefully, avoiding their faces.
You should also check their ears regularly for dirt and, especially after initial rescue, ear mites. Dirt can be cleaned gently with a cotton ball or swab; consult your vet if you find the telltale ear mite “coffee-ground” type dirt.
If you find fleas or flea dirt on kittens of any age, you must get them flea- free as soon as possible. Young kittens can easily get anemia from flea infestation and really endanger its life. First, use a flea comb to remove as much of the dirt and fleas from the fur as you can.
Ask your vet for a flea spray that’s okay to use on very young kittens; always read the warnings on any flea product to confirm at which age it is safe. Place the kitten on a towel for about 20 minutes; then discard the towel with the dead and dying fleas that have come from the kitten.
After using a spray, you can give the kitten a bath in gentle or surgical soap; make sure water temperature is lukewarm so as not to chill the kitten. Dry the kitten, if old enough, with a blow dryer or you can towel- dry it, then put it in a carrier and aim the blow dryer into it to gently dry the kitten with warm, circulating air.
Other skin irritations to look for are ringworm and mange. If a kitten is scratching excessively and there are bare patches where fur is missing, isolate the kitten from littermates and consult a vet immediately for treatment.
Weight Gain
Kittens should gain about ½ ounce every day or 4 ounces per week.
Weigh them at the same time every day with a kitchen or small postal scale.
Lack of gain or weight loss beyond 24 hours is cause for alarm and a visit to the vet. Their bellies should always be rotund– if you squeeze them between two fingers and slowly try to bring the fingers together, you should NOT be able to do it!
You can check to make sure a kitten is properly hydrated by pulling up the skin at the scruff of the neck. If it bounces back nicely, hydration is good. If it doesn’t bounce back, or goes back down slowly, they will need at least one dose of subcutaneous (under-the-skin) fluids.
Weaning
Weaning occurs at about 4 weeks, but keep in mind that some kittens take a bit longer, especially without a momcat to show them the wonders of eating solid food. You will know that a kitten is ready for the weaning process when it is (a) biting its nipple often and forcefully, and (b) able to lick formula from your finger. The next step is to get the kitten to lap up formula from a spoon. Once they’ve mastered that, try putting it in a flat dish.
At that point, you can mix the kitten formula with baby food (we recommend Beechnut Chicken Baby Food) into a gruel and try to get the kittens to lap it up from a dish or a spoon. Eventually, you can mix dry food with formula, gradually reducing the amount of formula until they’re eating just the food. It is not uncommon for weight gain to slow and minor, temporary diarrhea to occur during weaning.
(See below for our recommendations on what to feed kitty)
Some kittens grasp the concept right away; others take days. Keep bottle feeding while weaning to make sure they get enough to eat. Reduce bottle feeding as their solid-food consumption grows. If you give dry food, moisten it, because kittens can?t chew dry food well until about 8 weeks.
Remember that changes in diet can quickly cause diarrhea, so keep an eye on your kitten’s stools. Diarrhea can be life-threatening to a kitten if left untreated; usually, a dose of one or more types of antibiotics prescribed by your vet will get them back on track.
Development Milestones
Kittens weigh about 2 to 4 ounces at birth; they should double their body weight in the first week.
Eyes open at 7-10 days. If eyes seem to be pus-filled or sealed shut, open and clean with a warm wet cloth and apply Terramycin ointment (sold at pet stores) until the infection clears up; if it doesn’t, consult your vet as it may be a more serious eye infection.
Eyes will stay blue until they are about 3 to 4 weeks old, but true eye color won’t settle in until the kitten’s about 3 months old.
At 2 weeks of age, the ears will start to stand up. At about 3 weeks, they will try to walk. At 4 weeks, they’ll start to play with each other and develop teeth.
A first dose of roundworm medication should be given at 6 weeks; a second dose for roundworms, as well as a dose for tapeworms, should be given at 8 weeks. (Always check with your vet…we don’t recommend worming any cat unless a veterinary checkup is done first)
The first FVRCP (4-in-1) vaccination should be given at 6-8 weeks.
A first FELV (Leukemia) vaccination should be given at 8 weeks.
Consult your veterinarian for schedule of follow-up vaccinations; these vary with vaccination brands and types.
When the kitten weighs two pounds (usually at 8 - 9 weeks old) and is healthy, they are old enough to be spayed and neutered. At this age, they are also old enough to be adopted; if you plan to put your kittens up for adoption, you must not do this before they are 8 weeks old.
Love and Attention
This part’s the easy one. Emotional and physical closeness to you is as important to a kitten as food and warmth. Pet the kitten often, letting it snuggle. You’ll be surprised how this early cuddle activity will stay a basic instinct as the cat grows into an adult. We’ve found that hand-raised kittens have a much deeper bond to their owners and are highly loyal, intelligent, and affectionate.
Playing with the kitten with a variety of toys is also important; this will help them develop motor skills and also help them bond to you.
Exercise will keep their energy up and make them happy, healthy, and extra-adorable.
Once kittens are about six weeks old and healthy, it’s okay to let them interact with other cats and even dogs.
One Last Thought . . .
All this sounds much harder than it really is. Raising “bottle-babies” is a labor of love for almost everyone who takes it on. Keep in mind, though, that it can be a difficult process and some things are beyond our control. If you “lose” a kitten, you should never blame yourself.
Reprinted from Kitten Rescue, Los Angeles http://www.eliminatecatodour.com
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1238.shtml
.
Apr
21
Posted under
Uncategorized The Beginning Of The Beagle
By: Michelle A Adams
There are few breeds of dogs that are as popular in this country today as the Beagle. This compact pup is big on personality, and with patient and persistent training, can be a welcome addition to many homes. But how did the Beagle end up in this country? This breed of dog has a long and interesting history that can be traced back to the early years of civilization. It is thought that Beagle-type dogs existed in early Greece, and later in England. It is also possible that Beagles were used in countries like France and Italy.
However, the Beagle as we know it today probably originated in Great Britain in the first part of the second century. Beagles are thought to be a descendant of the Talbot Hound, along with Foxhounds and the Southern Hound. These dogs were primarily bred for hunting purposes, and many Beagles are still used in this function today. The most popular hunting prey for the Beagle is the hare, since the instincts of this breed are tailored specifically to locating and coaxing out these critters for hunters.
The Beagle spent many years in England developing as a breed by many in the field. During the middle of the 1800?s, Reverend Phillip Honeywood began breeding Beagles that are the closest to the dogs that we are familiar with today. However, these animals were bred for function rather than looks. Another Englishman, Thomas Johnson took that breeding a step further to combine the best of both worlds ? an attractive dog that was a competent hunter as well. Beagles came to the United States at about this time, although the same care was not taken at first to preserve the breed.
A man in Illinois by the name of General Richard Rowett imported Beagles from England and began the careful process of breeding high quality dogs.
The Beagle Puppy
...
Beagle: Is it the Breed for You?
...
Grooming Your Beagle
...
Grooming Your Beagle
...
Grooming Your Beagle
...
Since that time, Beagles have continued to be one of the most popular choices in dogs in this country, due to their looks, skills and temperaments.
Beagle can make the perfect pet for many families since the characteristic of this breed is usually a friendly, social nature. However, the popularity of breeds like Beagles has led to the establishment of many puppy mills where dogs are bred for profit instead of health and quality of the animals. This is why it is so important that you take the time to do plenty of research before you purchase your Beagle by reading articles like this, scanning the Internet for up to date Beagle information and talking to experts like reputable breeders and veterinarians for information and recommendations.
It is also helpful to understand the history of the Beagle so that you have a good idea of what these dogs were bred for and what you should expect from your own pet. Beagles that are carefully chosen can bring their owners and families plenty of love and fun for many years to come.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1426.shtml
.
Apr
20
Posted under
Uncategorized Cat Dandruff And Pet Shampoos
By: Anita Hampton
The last thing you expect from your furry little friend is a blizzard of flaky skin. Dog dandruff.
Cat dandruff…..Now what should a caring pet owner do?
“Pet dandruff looks like a really bad case of people dandruff - you can easily see it with most animals,” says Nancy Scanlan, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in California.
While occasionally dog dandruff and cat dandruff can indicate a serious health problem, like allergies, parasites, or skin infections, more often it occurs when skin cells naturally proliferate — They form, die and then flake off — at an accelerated rate.
Scott Weldy, D.V.M. says, “Since pet dandruff is a sign of flaky skin, giving your pet regular baths will help wash the flakes away before they accumulate. Bathing your pet once a month in winter and twice a month in summer may clear up the problem for good.”
* To bathe your pet, use warm water, Not hot water.
* Use a mild shampoo and massage it well into your pet’s skin.
* Then rinse thoroughly and dry your pet well.
* Don’t use medicated shampoos made for humans because they can be harmful for pets.
* Check the label carefully! Products that may be safe for dogs, may not necessarily be safe for cats.
* To prevent making dandruff worse, avoid using shampoos that include an insecticide.
* Most flea shampoos are very drying to the skin, thus creating more dandruff problems.
Regular brushing and grooming your pet will help distribute natural oils evenly over dry skin, which will help keep dandruff down.
Choose a brush that’s not too harsh. You can tell by rubbing the brush against the back of your hand to see if it will hurt. Something you would use on your own head will be excellent for your pet.
Cat Dandruff And Pet Shampoos
...
Gee! Your Dog Smells Nice
...
Top Ways to Improve Coat Care for Your Dog
...
Dog Groomer : How To Increase Your Revenues With Pet Grooming Supplies!
...
Pet Grooming Guide - How to Groom Your Pet
...
Hall, D.V.M.
“While dandruff is usually nothing more than flaky skin, in some cases it can indicate serious problems. Warning signs to watch for, besides the flakes, include scabs, crusting or itching.”
“Problems with the skin can be an indication of internal disease. After a month or so, if there is no improvement, you should take your pet to the vet.”
According to Mollyann Holland, D.V.M., “Sometimes we’ll see dandruff when animals aren’t getting enough fat in their diets. Giving your pet fish oil supplements will help improve the metabolism of fats in skin tissue. Some generic and supermarket brand foods do not provide the full range of vitamins and minerals your pet needs to maintain a healthy skin. Many pets have been taken off generic foods and put on a
