Archive for March, 2008
Mar
31
Posted under
Uncategorized Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
By: Kate Tilmouth
You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat.
A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.
Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.
An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway.
Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat
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There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.
Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.
Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.
It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1417.shtml
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Mar
30
Posted under
Uncategorized Foods Toxic To Dogs
By: Lillian White
Some human foods that should not be consumed by dogs include:
Intoxicating Beverages, Such as Beer, Wine, Spirits:
Consumption of these beverages may lead to coma or possibly death. Symptoms of alcoholic beverage overdose may include, excitement, depression, sadness, stumbling, cardiac arrest, and death.
Chocolate, Tea, Coffee, Coffee Beans:
Their content of caffeine, theophylline, or theobromine affects the nervous system and the heart. Chocolate overdose symptoms may include, excessive panting, hyperactivity, vomiting, diarrhea, irregular heartbeat, and death.
Grapes, Raisins:
Kidney failure may be caused by an unknown toxin which is present in grapes in raisins. Syptoms of poisening from grapes or raisins may include abdominal pain, vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, and a halt in the production of urine. Ingestion by your pet may be fatal and even cause death.
Macadamia Nuts:
An unknown toxin present in macadamia nuts may experience undesired affects of the nervous and digestive systems. They may also have negative affects on muscles. Symptoms may include muscle tremors, stiffness, weakness, sadness, gastrointestinal upset, vomiting, and lethargy.
Garlic, Onions:
Onions and Garlic contain contain substances which damage red blood cells. Symptoms include, anemia, lethargy, weakness, discolored urine, diarrhea, and vomiting. Processed, fresh, cooked, and powdered forms should be avoided.
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Symptoms may include, abdominal pain, shock, kidney failure, liver failure, hallucinations, diarrhea, vomiting, coma, and even death.
Prevention is the key, keeping these foods away from your pet to avoid possible toxic poisoning and overdose. If your dog is suspected of eating any of these foods get them to a veterinarian immediately.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1461.shtml
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Mar
29
Posted under
Uncategorized A Cat\’s Amazing Whiskers
By: Sharon Cowherd
Have you ever experienced the tickle from one of your cat?s whiskers as they brush against your face or neck? I have been tickled on many occasions from each of my cat?s as they rub up against me for attention or curling up on my shoulder to go to sleep. I never really thought about what they use their whiskers for, all I really knew is that they tickled me a lot.
Besides giving each cat their own unique distinction, whiskers are a functional part of a cat. Whiskers are a sensory system for cats made up of nerve endings that allow them to feel the lightest touch, even an air current.
Cats are known to be farsighted and they will use their whiskers to move around in those areas that they are not able to see clearly. Even cats that are blind or their vision is deteriorating will rely more on their whiskers to move about. Cats that are born with their vision impaired will often have longer whiskers to help them move around. If a cat were to lose their whiskers, they would more than likely bump into things.
You also can tell the mood of your cat from their whiskers. When your cat is calm you will see that their whiskers will be pushed forward. And if your cat is stressed out or is being defensive their whiskers will be pulled closer to their face.
If you have more than one cat, have you noticed that the whiskers of each of them are not the same? The length of a cat?s whiskers even varies between breeds. I currently have three cats and have noticed that each one has whiskers that are different in length to the others. I have also noticed that Tiggy my oldest cat has a few whiskers that are not all white, but have some black in them. While the other two, Leena and Cooper, have whiskers that are all white.
Most of us see the cat?s whiskers above their eyes and around their mouth, also called muzzle. But did you know that they also have whiskers on the back of their front legs or what would be considered their wrists.
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They are not as long as the whiskers on their face, but they have them.
Whiskers do get very long and some people are tempted to trim them thinking that they should be to help the cat. But whiskers are never to be trimmed, cut, or any other method of removing them. The cats do have nerve endings in the whiskers and they will feel the trimming and it will not be pleasant for them. Have you ever touched one of the whiskers on your cat?s face? Did you notice them blink or twitch? It is because their whiskers are very sensitive and should be treated with care.
Whiskers can be ticklish when applied to us in the right fashion, and they are a very distinctive characteristic on a cat. We should always leave a cat?s whiskers alone, as they are their guide to moving around.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1468.shtml
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Mar
28
Posted under
Uncategorized Shih Tzu Grooming Tips - Coat Handling Basics
By: Connie Limon
Use gentle action. When bathing, thoroughly wet the coat with warm water, apply shampoo and gently squeeze the suds through the coat to cleanse rather than scrubbing the hair back and forth. Use a gentle, all natural shampoo such as HealthyPetNet Herbal Blend shampoo, which is a unique blend of herbs and other ingredients to soothe dry, itchy and irritated skin as well as to condition dull, brittle or normal coats. It gently cleans away dirt without drying and leaves the skin and coat fresh, clean and healthy. The shampoo has a fresh, peppermint smell. Always follow a shampoo with a creme rinse.
In your daily brushing if you run into static electricity in the coat try using a mixture of two tablespoons or less of creme rinse mixed with two cups of water in a spritzer bottle. Lightly spray on the hair before brushing each layer. After thoroughly brushing, run a wide tooth comb through the coat to double-check for any areas you may have missed and to restraighten the hair.
The Little Guys:
The Shih Tzu history is full of legends and mysteries. From the very first moment I laid eyes upon a shih tzu I was captivated by these adorable shaggy mop- heads and began reading about their past. I had found my “niche.”
I started reading about The Empress Dowager. She must have been quite a character in her day and time. One of the things I found amusing about her was how she made it common practice to have the eunuchs hold animals up for her inspection. If its eyes were dirty, or its hind legs not of the right length or its body too long they were taken into the city and sold, receiving good prices because they were from the imperial kennels.
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” A favorite color of the palace was the “Golden Color.”
As a result of these practices of The Empress Dowager, it is easy to see how several different types of Shih Tzu developed in the Chinese capital by the time the breed became known to the outside world. Hidden in the palace and beloved at court were the exquisitely dainty and well- proportioned little jewels, bred with the strickest selectivity to the imperial idea. And then there was the other specimens, treasured still yet by some who long ago learned to be satisfied with something less than the best. And in the opinion of the Empress Dowager during these early days of the development of the shih tzu - The Imperial Shih Tzu (shorter on leg, short, cobby bodies and 8 lbs. or less was considered the superior quality.
This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1301.shtml
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Mar
27
Posted under
Uncategorized The Bloody Nose Of Your Labrador Retriever
By: Richard Cussons
It is alarming as well as messy in the home when you see blood dripping from the nostrils of your Labrador Retriever. Immediate attention should be given to address this problem but you should identify first the causes. Nose bleeding in Labrador Retriever is caused by various reasons, some are merely caused by your pet’s environment such as pollution from smoking, poor air quality or excessive exposure to too much heat. The most common cause is an infection or something is lodged in your dog’s nose. However, not all causes are as mild as stated earlier. Many cases of canine nose bleeding are signs of another disorder, most are very serious diseases. Breeds like Labrador Retriever and Basset Hounds are at increased risk of canine nose tumor.
Before you actually see blood dripping from your dog’s nostril, there are already signs associated with canine nose bleeding. Your dog will initially sneeze or you will discover discharge from the nose. Sometimes the discharge may contain blood. Your dog may also show difficulty breathing indicating that there is a foreign object lodged in the nasal passage. He will even try to rub his muzzle against a hard surface. If blood is coming from only one nostril or if there is discharge, the presence of diseases such as distemper, bacterial rhinitis, infected sinuses, kennel cough and canine nose tumor exist.
The inside of a dog’s nose is sensitive and is easily damaged. If you are sure that there is something lodged in your dog’s nostril, you should not try to remove it. The object may be too far back and must be sedated or anesthetized in order to remove it.
Keeping your pet calm as is important to control bleeding. Excitement or nervousness will increase blood pressure and will eventually increase the bleeding.
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Dogs are often affected with their owner’s emotions. If you show you are nervous, he will get nervous too. Try to be calm and apply an ice pack into the bridge of your dog’s nose. Small blood vessels will constrict to cold thus reduce bleeding.
If the stated tips are ineffective in controlling the bleeding and difficulty breathing is present, visit your vet immediately for specific tests to diagnose the cause of the problem.
A Labrador Retriever is an ideal working dog. Though not scent dogs, they still use their sense of smell to detect drugs, bombs and the likes. They are used by police, rescue teams and other official bodies. This simply means that, every part of a Labrador Retriever is important in performing work expected of him.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1525.shtml
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Mar
26
Posted under
Uncategorized Applying Dressage To Hunt Seat: Two Instructors Find Value
By: Ron Petracek
Twenty years ago, when a western reining trainer admitted that he took dressage lessons to improve his horse?s reining, his fellow cowboys thought he had lost his mind. Some 20 years later finds several hunt seat instructors actively using aspects of dressage in their training.
Christy, a hunt seat equitation instructor, commented that if you look at the old hunt seat equitation videos and photos of students instructed by George Morris and others, the horses are in a training level dressage frame.
Celine, a hunt seat/balanced seat instructor, noted that dressage is the basis of all riding. ?Classical dressage has its roots in cavalry riding in war; whereas hunt seat has its origins in long cross country rides across fields on a hunt. Hunt seat was adapted for the show ring,? she said. She noted that combining the elements of hunt seat and dressage brings balanced seat.
Christy uses the rider-based training that she received from her dressage instructor for her hunt seat students.
“At their first lesson, I put them right on the longe line and take away stirrups and reins immediately,” she described. “I spend a lot of time helping them build independent hand, seat and leg in exercises on the longe line before I have them ride on the rail.”
Christy has found that by doing so, the riders have feel and balance more quickly. “Beginner issues like steering just seem to fall right into place even though they’ve spent their first several lessons on the longe line.”
Celine also likes to apply dressage concepts early on in hunt seat education. ?I start right away with rhythm and balance, teaching the student how to sit with balance. Then I address how the horse moves and how to find the horse?s natural rhythm. When you apply the concepts of dressage early on, students have greater ?feel? for their horses.?
She noted that in everyday hunt seat, she sees horses just going around the ring in the gaits, walk, then trot, and then canter. “The riders barely understand how to circle correctly. In many cases, you see trainers just focusing on jumping. Flatwork just becomes a term meaning getting the horse warmed up enough to jump,” she said. ?When I go to some of the large local hunt shows, I?m amazed that riders aren?t balancing their horses, or even riding them correctly through a turn.
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?They got over their courses by the grace of God.?
?I was aghast by the strung out, unbalanced approaches to jumps and the rushing and diving over each fence,? she said. She finds that dressage helps her riders gain a balanced and rhythmic approach to fences.
She described one hunt seat student she had recently met who had no concept of getting the horse to work back to front or flexion though she had her own horse and was taking lessons with her instructor for five years.
?When she sat in on other lessons her friends were having with other instructors, she felt she was missing out on a world of education with her horse. She said her lessons just revolved around her instructor who called out ?heals down,? ?shoulders back,? ?posting trot,? etc.?
Celine uses dressage to focus on the points of the ring by keeping the horse correctly between and in front of the rider?s leg. ?How do you get your horse from point A to point B, not A to D?? she explained.
?When you focus on riding every stride, as in dressage, your hunter or equitation horse will always know what you want,? she explained. ?You can circle, go straight, change gait, jump and make it look so easy, balanced and fluid. Riding hunt seat this way gives the horse the correct muscle development, impulsion and work ethic.”
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1459.shtml
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Mar
25
Posted under
Uncategorized Do No Bark Collars Work?
By: Andrei Smith
Yes. Some work better than others. Some control the barking through corrections, these are bark control collars.
Other dog bark collars actually modify the dog?s behavior and teach the dog not to bark.These behavior modification collars are preferred, as the goal for all dog owners is to teach their dog not to bark and to be able to remove the dog no bark collar.
Some no bark collars are rechargeable, some are waterproof, and many others. Most of the quality no bark collars offered today are offered by either Innotek or PetSafe. The Innotek no bark collars are advanced correction and behavior modification collars. The PetSafe no bark collars are correction only.
Besides no bark collars, some companies still offer bark collars which use ultrasound to control the dogs barking. Collars or devices which emit ultrasound are not specific.
Although the ultrasound will be heard by the barking dog, so will it be heard by all other pets in the home, which were not barking! Ultrasound collars are still available, but many retailers are fazing them out because the no bark collars are much more effective. For many retailers the ultrasonic collars, because of their relative poor success rate have resulted in a high return rate. So the retailers are no longer offering ultrasonic collars.
There are also citronella collars available. This does sound strange, but they are available. Basically a reservoir filled with citronella is placed on the front of the collar. When the dog barks a citronella spray is projected through a tube toward the dogs nose and face. The harsh chemical serves as a correction when a dog barks. These collars can break, are not small for little dogs, and require repeated refills of citronella.
Do they work, probably not.
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If you can believe that and can bring yourself to spray citronella into your face, then consider using it for your dog.
How It Works
The no bark collar is a training device that helps reduce nuisance barking. There are two key features of the no bark collar.
The first is a mild warning sensation triggered by your dog?s first bark. The second feature occurs when your dog barks again within 30 seconds of the first bark. This will be the first and lowest level of correction. There are a total of 6 levels of correction that are triggered by your dog?s successive barks.
Each successive bark will increase the correction level if the bark is within 30 seconds of the previous bark. If your dog does not bark for at least 30 seconds the receiver resets itself. Along with each correction there will be an audible beep.
As a built-in safety feature, when your dog barks 15 times or more in a 50 second period the collar will automatically shut off for a period of 3 minutes.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1458.shtml
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Mar
24
Posted under
Uncategorized Hypoglycemia - A Common Problem In The Toy Dog
By: Connie Limon
One of the main things a new owner needs to take precautions against is a new puppy developing hypoglycemia or low blood sugar. Hypoglycemia can occur without much warning and within hours of a puppy going to a new home, missing a meal, or does not eat full meals, gets chilled, overtired or exhausted from too much handling or playing. It occurs more in the toy breeds, but can also occur in larger breeds. Signs are a depressed affect or mood, weakness, wobbly gait, jerky, lethargic. The neck may get stiff. The head may appear to be tilted to either the left or right and teeth may be clamped tightly together. These are all signs this puppy is having a drop in their sugar level and if left untreated will progress to convulsions, seizures or coma and can then be fatal.
If any of these symptoms are present, take your puppy to the nearest vet or animal emergency center. If this is not possible or on the way to the vet, if you have white Karo syrup or can get this quickly. Mix the white Karo syrup with water and place on the puppy’s tongue with a dropper or just place some syrup on your finger and rub on the puppy’s gums. Do not put excessive amounts in the puppy’s mouth, as the puppy can choke. Nutri-cal is the best to keep in a household of canines or puppies. Nutri-cal gives quick results and gets into the bloodstream within seconds. Dosage instructions is on the tube. You can give Nutri-cal using a syringe. Take out the plunger, place the opening of the Nutri-cal tube at the opening of the syringe and squeeze in the Nutri-cal to the specified dosage. Then squirt it a small amount at a time into the puppy’s mouth. If your puppy has had a low blood sugar attack, using Pedyalite instead of water helps with any dehydration.
Prevention:
Add one tqblespoon of honey or sugar to every 16 ounces of water. Keep plain drinking water available as well.
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Never feed chocolate, fried foods or milk. Do not allow puppy to become over-chilled or tired. Let your new puppy rest and become acustomed to his new home. Give puppy Nutri-cal, about one inch every 6 hours for at least 48 hours in a new home and if you begin to see puppy acting very lethargic, give Nutri-cal.
What should you have ready for a new puppy:
Food breeder had puppy on.
If you plan to change puppy’s food, you still need to have a small bag of breeder’s brand to mix with your brand until you have weaned puppy off breeder’s brand of food.
Always keep Nutri-cal
Water Bottles
A Housebreaking Crate
Soft Blankets and Quilts
Non-slip steel bowls (a good brand can be found at Flint River Ranch
Gourmet Dental Treats from HealthyPetNet
Ear Care Formula (I strongly recommend the formula from HealthyPetNet) Brushes, combs and a good tearless shampoo
These are just a few items to have ready for the arrival of a new puppy. Ask your breeder for anything else he/she would recommend you have. Most important is to have the Nutri-cal and to give Nutri-cal especially to the tiny toy breeds.
This article is free to publish with the resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1291.shtml
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Mar
23
Posted under
Uncategorized Is It Bad to Feed Wild Birds?
By: Mike Kershaw
Is there evidence that feeding birds in your backyard will lead to bird death? Some think that once birds rely on your feed, they will not be capable of gaining their own food, especially during hard times such as winter.
Some feel that birds will rely on the food provided by you and that they will lose their ability to find their own food. Other experts think that our feathered friends are much more resilient and will discover new sources of food if the feeder repeatedly is empty and they can’t support themselves or their young.
As reported in Bird Watcher’s Digest, researchers Margaret Brittingham and Stanley Temple found that black-capped chickadees take, on average, only 20-25% of their winter food requirements from feeders. But, they also demonstrated a significant correlation between an individual bird’s ability to survive the winter and the use of bird feeders.
Evidence shows that aves that eat food provided by humans through feeders had an annual (not just winter) survival rate that is 8% higher (up to 95% from 87%) than those birds that don’t eat food provided by humans. For winter (as opposed to month-to-month), 69% of the feeder using birds survived the winter where only 37% of wild non-feeder using birds survived the winter.
If more wild birds survive the winter when we feed them, what are the implications? In simple terms, it means that without our help, a higher number of birds fail to survive the winter. If we help, more birds will survive. Curiously, even though our food supply will decrease the winter death rate, our avian friends will not completely rely on us. If your bird feeders are consistently empty, these amazing animals will almost always take flight to find another source of food on their own. You will also notice that in the spring, when food abounds, the birds are not as active at the feeders as they are in the winter when food is harder to find.
We can only suspect that different birds, like people, have different levels of dependence. However, the truth is that our avian friends will adapt. If one fails to continue a consistent feeding program, the birds will adapt and search for food.
I recommend that if you start a bird feeding program, stay consistent. It is best if you fill the feeders at the same time every day or whatever interval you need and ensure that the feeders do not stay empty for extended periods. For really great public information about bird feeding, go to http://www.
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org/
Also, if you plan to go on vacation or holiday, plan for your absence. If you will be gone for a short time (a few days), overfill your feeder and spread some on the ground around trees or bushes near your feeders. If you are going to be gone for an extended time, ask your friends, neighbors, or relatives to check and fill your feeders on a consistent basis.
As for winter feeding, it is more serious. Some bird populations may not migrate to areas of higher food availability if there is a reliable source near their summer habitats. Thus, if you feed birds on a consistent basis over the spring and summer, it is important that you are extremely consistent in the winter, when some species may rely on your food to survive.
To make a long story short, it is better for survival rates if you feed wild birds in your yard. But if you decide to feed them, it is ideal if you are consistent in your feeding.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1395.shtml
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Mar
22
Posted under
Uncategorized 10 Reasons Why Pet Insurance Is A Must
By: Timothy Rudon
Pets today need insurance as the cost of medical treatments are very high and in breeding and other problems have made pets more susceptible to diseases and other problems. Pet insurance can cost anywhere between USD 2000-6000 over the life of a pet and the amount of premium to be paid would depend on many variables like breed, age, and more.
Pet insurance can be bought online or offline from leaders like: Pet care Insurance Companies; Veterinary Pet Insurance Company; Pets Best Insurance; and Vet Insurance. The best way to insure a pet is to ask your vet for advice. Pet insurance at affordable rates can be purchased online from websites devoted to pet insurance and pet care. The premium to be paid depends on age of pet, general health of pet, breed of pet, potential risks for susceptible diseases and so on.
Before investing in insurance you must do your homework and find out all you can about polices, how to keep premiums low, and how to buy the best pet insurance at the most affordable rate. The internet is a knowledge highway and has great information on pets, insurance options, and more. Make the effort to educate yourself.
Medical treatment can cost thousands of dollars. And treatments for hip diseases, cancers, kidney failure and more can cost between USD 1000- 5000. In case of disease or accidents pets can be treated and nursed back to health instead of ?put down.?
Here are a few reasons why pet insurance is to be considered:
1. A pet is a family member and death due to accident or illness can upset children. Insurance coverage could save the life of the pet.
2. Pet insurance gives peace of mind and owners can stop worrying about unpaid bills or pets crossing roads.
3. Pet insurance ensures longer life spans of pets.
4. Insurance offers preventive health care, which means diseases can be detected in pets at early stages when treatments can offer cures.
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Pet insurance covers expensive diagnostics and hospitalization expenses for pets.
6. Pet insurance can save the life of the pet as it covers treatments like radiation therapy and kidney replacements.
7. Pet insurance releases the burden of having to pay when the family is going through lean times such as being ?laid off? or having a personal illness to deal with.
8. Pet insurance can help you get a deductible which is cost saving and the insurance will protect the pet.
9. Pet insurance offers regular health checks, shots, elective and non elective surgeries, and sometimes extended stays at a pet boarding house.
10. In general pet insurance can cost as little as USD 20-40 a month and this brings good health and cheer to the pet, very much a family member.
Pet insurance could save the life of a dear one without straining your wallet.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1484.shtml
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Mar
21
Posted under
Uncategorized Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?
By: Marc Goldberg
Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.
Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog?s way of saying ?this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.? In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.
When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn?t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he?ll face a swift correction. But that?s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.
But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster?a dog who guards something against his very owners.
In this article we?ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.
The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He?s guarding space. Moreover, he?s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.
You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.
In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That?s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.
I have actually seen adults chastise children for being ?impolite? to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as ?quirks? of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.
Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That?s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who?s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.
The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he?s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. ?They just don?t seem to get it,? the dog is thinking. ?I?ll have to warn them earlier.?
This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don?t realize that they?re not ?supposed to bother the dog.? They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.
Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he?s laying on the sofa.
Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.
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The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.
Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That?s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.
While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it?s tragic because it usually doesn?t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.
Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.
We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.
We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.
The reason we didn?t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn?t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.
But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.
In short, by sometimes invading Willy?s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior?in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.
Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn?t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.
We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.
Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now ?fleeing? from the baby.
We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.
Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog?s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.
Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.
Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1265.shtml
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Mar
20
Posted under
Uncategorized Self Protection From Strange Dogs
By: Rick Or Jan Strickland
Have you ever been riding your bicycle around the block when a dog comes running out of it’s yard and starts chasing you down the street? Maybe you’re walking down the street when you spot a rather large dog a few houses away. The dog appears to be unattended and you don’t know if it’s friendly. Has this ever happened to you? Your walking your small dog (on a leash) down the street when suddenly your confronted by a strange, free roaming dog and it’s growling and in the attack position.
What do you do? What can you do?
In the first scenario, described above, where the bicyclist is being chased by a dog, you would probably start peddling faster while simultaneously kicking out at the dog in an attempt to both outrun the dog and prevent it from biting you. The second scenario has you walking down the street when you spot a large, unattended dog a few houses away. Lot’s of people go for walks carrying a base- ball bat or large stick to protect themselves just in case the dog turns out to be, shall we say, unfriendly. First, carrying a baseball bat or a large stick can be cumbersome and get heavy after awhile. Second, you have to be prepared to beat the dog (not an easy thing to do). Imagine how you will feel afterwards. So, instead, you’ll probably just turn around and walk back rather than take a chance. The last scenerio as described above, has you walking your small dog on a leash, when your confronted by a larger, strange dog. Most likely, you will pick up your beloved pet, hold it close to you and then just hope for the best. Trying to run away almost never works.
Let’s look at some other options. One is to keep the dog from coming near you in the first place. You can accomplish this with an electronic animal repellant. Using ultrasonic technology, the devise produces a discomforting but not harmful high frequency sound, audible to dogs but not to humans. One such device is the Ultrasonic Dog Chaser. It’s small and lightweight. It measures 3 & 3/4 inches by 2 & 3/16 inches by 7/8 inches. That’s roughly the size of a deck of cards. Weighing in at just 3.5 ounces with the 9-volt battery, it’s quite compact. It has a frequency range between 20,000Hz - 25,000Hz. At 135dbs, it has an effective range up to 20 feet. The device is easy to use, too. Point the animal repeller at the dog and press the button. That’s all there is to it. It’s also safe and humane. The electronic animal repeller is not the repeller of choice however, if your walking your dog.
A second option is to whip out your trusty dog repellent spray. Mace makes a safe, humane and effective dog repellent spray that’s EPA approved. It sprays 8-10 feet, but don’t spray it into the wind as the results could prove to be dis- astrous.
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When sprayed with a pepper spray dog repellent spray, most dogs throw themselves on the ground rubbing their eyes. The painful burning effects of the spray typically wear off within a few minutes, leaving the dog healthy and unharmed. Choose dog repellent sprays with pepper spray, also known as OC (oleoresin capsicum) spray, as it’s ingredient. Other sprays may not work on dogs that don’t respond to pain. It’s totally non-toxic.
Another option is the stun baton. A favorite among security guards, it is very effective on dogs. Just touch the dog on it’s face. It will drop to it’s knees, turn and run. Normally, however, the clicking sounds the baton makes when turned on is enough to deter the dog. Stun batons come in different lengths ranging from 300,000 volts to 500,000 volts. A stun baton is a stun gun placed into a baton. Stun guns use high voltage and low amperage to temporarily disable an attacker. It does not rely on pain for results. The energy stored in the gun is dumped into the attackers blood sugar by converting it to lactic acid. Unable to produce energy for the muscles, the body is unable to function properly. The stun gun also interrupts the tiny neurological impulses that control muscle move- ment, causing the attacker to lose their balance. All this happens very rapidly. Should the attacker be touching you, the current will not pass to your body. Of course, as a last resort, you can use the baton as a stick or baseball ball to hit the dog with.
So go ahead and take that walk down the street, or pull out your bike and ride around the block again. There’s no need to be afraid of those stray dogs any more. Have FUN!
You can find these devices in some stores and on most internet sites selling self protection products.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1278.shtml
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Mar
19
Posted under
Uncategorized Dental Care For Your Dog
By: James Hunaban
Did you know that dental care is just as important for your dog as it is for us human beings? Just like with our teeth, your dogs? teeth can gather plaque during eating. This plaque can then build up and harden which then becomes known as a brown substance called tartar.
Then as this tartar accumulates it will work its way beneath the dog?s gums and become the reason behind painful infections and gum disease. This process occurs in the mouths of dogs, and is no different to what occurs in people. You no doubt brush your teeth on a regular basis, but think about your poor dog for a moment. What can he/she do?
The Veterinary world says that dog owners should brush their dog?s teeth twice a week to stop the accumulation of tartar. Well, I honestly don?t know any owners who take the trouble to do this. Hopefully you do. A lot of pet shops stock toothbrushes and toothpaste especially for dogs. You need to know that a dog?s sense of taste is a lot more sensitive than that of us humans and the minty, tingly, sort of toothpastes that we use will be pretty unpleasant to a dog. So just make sure you use the proper doggie toothpaste.
It is fortunate that dog?s have a natural tendency to chew and this acts as a dental care mechanism. Dogs crunch biscuits into small pieces when chewing and these rub against their teeth, providing a cleaning function. This is no substitute for brushing, but if you can?t manage that, just try to ensure he/she regularly gets some type of crunchy dog biscuit.
Any dogs that do not get the correct dental care and do not have access to good teeth cleaning foods run the risk of different types of mouth disease.
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Dental services are readily available for dogs. A dog?s teeth can be capped, filled, and extracted if required, just like a human beings. Of course the best way is to avoid the need for these services by looking after your dog?s teeth. Preventative dental care for your dog can save you money as well. Dog dental care can unfortunately be quite costly, but then it?s less painful than toothache.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1234.shtml
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Mar
18
Posted under
Uncategorized Dog Allergy - Treatment And Prevention
By: Dermot Condell
We know enough to care for our skin and keep dermatitis at bay. Just as in humans a dog allergy can be very painful and uncomfortable. A dog allergy can be extremely trying for both dog and owner. Unlike dogs, we look after our allergies, mainly because we are able to.
It’s quite possible, when your dog has an allergy; it’s something he/she will have for life. While difficult to diagnose, it’s important to beware of your dog’s signs if you’re to provide effective relieve to your dog’s allergies. Rarely will dogs grow out of their allergies, plus, it’s also unlikely that dog allergies are one-off.
Generally, most dog allergies can be traced back to a dog’s diet. If the symptoms that your dog displays, leads to confusing diagnoses, it’s best to seek advice from your veterinarian. Your first priority when dealing with your dog’s allergies should be a visit to the vet.
The sooner one acts, and starts treating their dog’s allergies the easier and less stressful it will be in the long run. Properly treating the symptoms of your dog’s allergies will certainly bring relief to your dog, but dealing with the cause of your dog’s allergy should greatly reduce distress in your dog.
Some believe using natural diets and treatments offer less harmful side effects than conventional commercial based products. More and more dog owners are looking to natural solutions in the treatment of their dog’s allergies. While it’s always advised that you seek the advice of your Veterinarian when treating dog allergies, it can also be well worth looking to some alternative methods. In the book, “Veterinary Secrets Revealed” (available at http://veterinary-secrets-revealed.com), Dr.
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According to Dr. Jones, allergies are one of the most common reasons that he sees pets.
A simple change in what your dog eats, plays with or sleeps on, could be all that is needed to put an end to your dog’s pain. The use of medicated shampoos or creams on your dog’s dry or itchy skin may play a key role in making your dog less susceptible to allergies. Without a doubt, preventing your dog’s allergies is by far, a much better option than constantly trying to cure what ails them. Treatment of dog allergies is an on-going process, while prevention is better in the long run.
Remember, it is essential that you be proficient in spotting the signs in order to correctly control and treat your dog’s allergies. So, if your dog is itching or scratching more than usual, shedding its skin, or suffer from unexplainable sores, then it is more than likely your dog has an allergy of some sort and a trip to the vet is advised.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1368.shtml
