Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category
Nov
20
Posted under
Uncategorized Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression
By: Darrin Donaldson
A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!
But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.
- Different aggression types -
There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:
- Aggression towards strangers
- Aggression towards family members
You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?
Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.
- Aggression towards strangers -
What is it?
It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)
Why does it happen?
There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?
What can I do about it?
The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.
How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?
When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.
It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.
The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.
What’s resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
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If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.
When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.
Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.
Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch.
It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership.
To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1575.shtml
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Nov
20
Posted under
Uncategorized The Consequences Of Dog Worship
By: Kate Loving Shenk
I found a rugged quartz crystal in our garden yesterday and brought it to my writing table, to gaze at its beauty and reveal its mystery as I write, like gazing into a crystal ball.
The five crystals in the center of it are perfect, in their own wild way, like the days I spent in total conflict with myself, with society and the world.
It brings to mind one of my favorite Alphia stories, my golden German Shepard Collie of the 1960’s, the pre-Funk commune years, occurring several months after the communal caravan arrived in San Francisco.
We found our large Victorian house after several weeks of illegal camping around the jagged Pacific shore hideaways and in the many untamed parks for which the city is famous.
The caravan people had remained disgruntled in spite of the constant dog/God guidance surrounding us.
A chasm developed between those who wanted to join the ranks of the work-a-day world, and the four of us who went on to establish the Funky Farm community and knew that going to work was antithetical to living creatively by the seat of our pants.
I had come to a place within myself where I needed to live outside of the mainstream, established 9-5 ho-hum I’m beaten down, kill me now style of existence I imagined my father ascribing to for his thirty-five working years, at the same place, doing the same job, everyday. I’d think of an exhilarating alternative, bet on that.
My life as a rip off artist now began in earnest.
One day, I took Alphia Lee for a walk in Golden Gate park. A squirrel distracted her from the beloved stick, and damn it if she didn’t run in front of a fast moving car. She crawled back to the side of the road.
I remember crying and kneeling beside her, going over her body, getting a sense of how badly she was hurt. A car pulled over and a young man asked to take me where ever I wished to go.
He had an old blanket and we carefully laid her on it.
Then he drove Alphia and me to the big rambling Victorian house that was our temporary abode.
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She’d look at us with a forlorn Muki eye, the dog who joined me 28 years later to show me true love.
That look inspired me to slip into the meat department of a local Safeway, and steal one steak a day for her, and for her only.
Then we’d sit with her for hours, stroking her neck and body and encouraging her to come back to us.
The long intimate times we spent with her were patient and happy. We did not desperately plead with her to live rather than die. Rather, we coaxed her gently, showing her our love, and gave her the great option of living with a handful of rogues completely alienated from society.
She opted to spend a few more years with us in our experiment of living–dangerously.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1423.shtml
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Nov
19
Posted under
Uncategorized What Every Dog Owner Ought to Know About Holiday Safety
By: Jennifer Koretsky
The Christmas holidays are fast approaching! While you’re busy decorating and preparing your home for guests, here are a few important tips to keep your dog safe this season.
The Christmas Tree
Tinsel, small ornaments, and ornament hooks are major choking hazards for dogs. It’s best to avoid tinsel altogether and keep small ornaments high on the tree, out of the dog’s reach. Also, make sure there are no stray ornament hooks on the floor!
If your family has a real tree (as opposed to an artificial tree), it’s best to block off the area around the tree with a screen or gate. Many dogs become ill from drinking tree water and ingesting pine needles. Vacuum the area around the tree regularly.
Holiday Guests
It’s exciting to have family and friends over during the holidays—even for your dog! But there are certain precautions you should take when having company over.
Dogs can easily slip out the door when people are continuously going in and out. Make sure your dog is wearing an identification tag with your phone number, even if he is micro-chipped. Not everyone who finds a lost dog knows to have him checked for a micro-chip.
Your guests may adore your dog, but don’t let them give your dog any food without asking. Children especially may want to give the dog a treat—hand them a safe treat and supervise while they give it to the dog. Under no circumstances should your dog be given turkey or chicken bones. They are too small and are a serious choking hazard. As an alternative, buy a marrow bone at the grocery store as a special holiday treat.
Why You Shouldn’t Give Dogs as Gifts
Bringing a new dog into the family is a wonderful thing, especially if you adopt a dog from a shelter. However, giving a dog as a Christmas gift is never a good idea. Regardless of whether the dog is a puppy or an adult, his first few days in your home should be all about him.
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A great idea for families who want to give their children a dog for Christmas is to gift wrap a dog bone. When the child opens it, tell them it’s for the new dog that you’ll be getting in a few weeks. Or you can leave a note from Santa explaining that he didn’t have enough room on his sleigh and will be coming back with the dog. Animal shelters are flooded every January with dogs who were given as Christmas gifts—so January is a great time to adopt a dog who needs a home.
Lastly, it’s always a good idea to have your vet’s phone number posted in a visible spot. Your vet’s office should have someone answering the phone 24/7.
The most important thing to remember, amidst all the chaos of the holidays, is to always know where your dog is and what he’s up to. That way everyone in your home, including the four-legged family members, can have a Merry Christmas.
Copyright (c) 2007 Jennifer Koretsky
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1450.shtml
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Nov
18
Posted under
Uncategorized Finding the Right Breeder
By: Denise Duncan
Before you go hunting for a family pet you want to make sure that you know exactly what kind of dog you are looking for. It is important to know what kind of Labrador you want in order to find the right Labrador breeder. There are several things you should keep in mind if you are considering making a Labrador your pet, breeding is one of them.
Once you have researched and studied about Labradors, and you have decided that you want to make one part of your family life, you will then need to find a good breeder. There are several things you should consider when you are looking for Labrador breeders. Remember that a breeder is only as good as his knowledge. You want one that will be able to answer all your questions concerning your pet to be. So, do your research about the different types of Labrador dogs so that you are sure you are asking the right questions. Be sure that when you are talking to breeders and asking questions that the Labrador breeders are able to answer your questions correctly. They should be able to give your valuable information.
An important point to consider is to be wary of Labrador breeders who don?t ask you questions. Dog breeders should be screening the people who are buying puppies from them. Good dog breeders are as interested in who their puppies will belong to as you are in getting the right puppy for you and your family. So if the breeder doesn?t ask you about where you live, how you plan to raise the puppy, and things that like, it?s probably not a good idea to buy a dog from them. Make sure that the Labrador breeder that you pick is taking an interest in you as a potential owner because that means that the breeder is also interested in where this puppy will go.
By asking questions of Labrador breeders, you will get a good idea about how much they care for their own dogs and how knowledgeable they are about Labrador dogs in general.
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A good Labrador breeder should never be afraid to answer your questions about his breeding program. Be sure to ask questions such as: are there any papers to go with the dogs? How many puppies has this dog had? Is she a good mother? How does the breeder know the parents aren?t related? What kind of health problems do your dogs have? Have any other people who have bought puppies from you been disappointed?
Remember that you should only get a puppy from a Labrador breeder who you are comfortable with, who has been able to answer all your questions, and who has shown concern about whom will be raising his puppy. Do your research first so you know that you are making a good choice. Visit several breeders to compare. Take the time to get to know the Labrador breeder that you have picked. These are just a few things will help ensure you?ve made the right choice when choosing a Labrador puppy to join your family.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1428.shtml
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Nov
17
Posted under
Uncategorized Aquarium Decorations Creating Homes for Fishes
By: Rajesh Rastogi
Aquarium decorations—-Creating Homes for Fishes
Aquarium decorations are not only beautiful to look at they also have an important purpose. They provide fishes with homes—- hiding places and natural borders resembling their natural habitat. There are many different types of decorations, for instance Cave dwelling fishes love aquarium decorations that structure like caves, holes and crevices. Whereas Fishes that live in dense vegetation prefer plants and other types of tiny hiding places. Decorations are crucial for a happy and healthy aquarium they also keep fishes from getting bored.
Tanks: There are many variants of tanks big, small, quadrilateral or polygonal. The size of an aquarium should be according to the size and the number of fishs you plan to keep.
Also tanks come in a variety of tinted glasses.
Plants: They are the the most beautiful, inexpensive source of decoration for your aquariums. Fishes love the aquatic plants as they are part of their natural habitats. They come in all varieties, costing anywhere from a few bucks to hundreds. Plants are very useful as well; they bind carbon dioxide and oxygenate the water. They also use organic waste products as nutrition and remove potentially harmful compounds from the water. Plants can also be used to keep a check on the water quality of an aquarium; the plant will start dieing before the fish if the water suddenly becomes toxic.
Wood, Rock and Coral: An aquarium can be like a miniature true habitat for the fishes with these decorations. Drift wood and mangroves can create a beautiful effect in the aquarium, plus some fishes particularly thrive on Drift wood. But be careful as Drift wood might lower pH levels and the hardness of the water. So it is best used in aquariums with soft slightly acid water. Stones and rocks make excellent decorations. But again caution is needed; you should never use rocks that affect your water?s pH levels or stones that might contain toxins. There are also fake rocks that resemble real rocks, but these are pretty expensive. Rocks can be used to create caves which many fishes are passionate about. Coral are a beautiful addition to marine aquariums; in fact they may prove necessary for a healthy marine habitat. But can be dangerous to fresh water aquarium and should not be used as they be harmful.
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Gravel comes in white, brown and black, or blue, red, green, yellow the whole rainbow spectrum. Sand again also has a plethora of colors white, black, blue, yellow, red, green. Both of these can be layered in multiple colors.
Glass marbles, Ceramics, Plastic: Ok all are unnatural materials and might look slightly tacky, but fishes don?t give a fig for this, they enjoy them enormously. Glass marbles though are not a good bottom substrate out of a biologically as flora does not thrive on them, can add beautiful colors to the aquarium. It?s best to use them sparingly or add another more functional substrate below. Ceramics are excellent aquarium decorations. All sizes and shapes can be used as long as they do not have sharp edges. However ceramics tend to grow algae that might be hard to. Plastic they are cheap, colorful and yes tacky, but can be found in a variety of fun shapes. Treasure chests, skulls, divers, pirates, plants and ships you name it and stores have them.
It is imperative that you only use aquarium decorations that are safe to use in aquariums. If you have salt water aquariums they should be saltwater-safe also. If you don?t take this precaution your fish will die due to the organisms and toxins released by the decorations
Decorations have both practical and aesthetical use if done tastefully and carefully you can create a miniature aquatic ecosystem that both you and your fish can enjoy.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1388.shtml
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Nov
16
Posted under
Uncategorized 6 Significant Dog Instincts And Traits
By: Lamar Deane
Domestication:
Canines were probably the first species to be domesticated by humans. It’s a generally accepted theory that the worlds first dogs were tamed wolves. Dogs share biological similarities with wolves. They look much alike. Anatomically, they have almost identical teeth, adapted for seizing and tearing. Their actions are similar and they have extremely sensitive senses of smell and hearing. Domesticated canines are loyal to and dependent upon their masters. They have taken a subservient place in human society. The only reward many dogs seek is a kind word and a pat on the head. Still, the study of dogs and wolves teaches us many traits that haven’t changed much since before they were domesticated.
1. Instinct:
Instinct is an inborn tendency to behave in a way that is characteristic of a breed.
2. Body Language:
Postural display is yet another characteristic of canines.
* When meeting a strange dog or person, non socialized dogs will raise their hackles (hair on their backs and necks). This is more noticeable in short haired dogs, which makes them look larger than they normally are. It is meant to intimidate other dogs and people who pose a threat. Oftentimes hackle raising is combined with pulling back their lips to show their teeth.
* A dogs ears and tail positions are among other postural displays that will tell what a dog is thinking. For instance, most dogs will tuck their tails between their legs and their ears will fall when submitting to a greater power.
* Rolling over on their backs is another action of submission a dog will portray.
* Kneeling, or putting their front legs on the ground and lowering their front quarters is an indication they want to play. Combining this with a wagging tail displays friendliness.
* A superior more dominating dog will usually assume another significant body posture toward another dog. Standing tall on stiff legs, the superior dog will strut around the powerless one, often stressing this posture with frequent growls and snarls.
* Another instinctive habit seen in many dogs, is turning in circles before lying down. Some experts say this circling goes back to the days when dogs turned around and around to pack down the grass to make a soft bed. Others think the habit is more likely connected to their checking the ground for the scent of its enemies, since the dog has its nose to the ground during the turning around.
* Digging is another inborn trait in that dogs will occasionally dig dens under porches or yards.
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* Chasing cars and/or other animals is not a bad habit, but just another instinct in many dog breeds.
* Attacking small animals is an inborn hunting trait derived from the time these small rodents were the dogs main food source. These inherited instincts are so natural that they cannot be stopped or changed completely, no matter how much effort is used.
3. Sense of Smell:
Sniffing or smelling the wind is another characteristic long established by wolves and other wild canines. This serves as a dual purpose; to detect the scent of prey and to distinguish predators in the area. Some breeds have a more keen sense of smell than other breeds. Domestic canines have 40 times more olfactory (sense of smell) cells than humans have.
4. Sense of Hearing:
With their erect ears dogs can hear the faintest sound and are excellent in early warnings of danger. Able to differentiate the distinct sounds of different cars in the distance, pet dogs often announce the arrival of their owner even before they can be seen.
5. Sight:
Dogs have highly developed visual capability. Their fields of vision is different and in some ways inferior to that of humans, but for their purposes, it is quite adequate.
6. Memory:
Dogs have an excellent memory which gives them the capability to learn quickly. In addition to a good memory and learning ability, a dog has the capacity to think and reasoning capabilities with which to solve problems. Dogs are a cunning and intelligent animal with a complex mind.
Although dogs’ instinctive actions and personalities are influenced by heredity, like other intelligent mammals, they are the products of genetics, experience, and training.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1550.shtml
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Nov
15
Posted under
Uncategorized How Long Do Dogs Live
By: David Beart
>From the time we bring them home as wriggling bundles of joy, we all want our puppies to live forever. As they bond with us and grow into full fledged family members, we tend not to think about the end of their life or how many precious years we have with our canine friends.
However, when picking out our new puppy it is rare that we give adequate consideration to the average lifespan of the dog. There are distinct factors that play into whether our puppy will be with us until our children graduate from high school or if they give us a few good years.
Most experts agree that small breeds tend to outlive large breeds. The general rule of thumb is the larger the dog the shorter the life span. Large medium to large breed dog tend to live about ten years, although there are exceptions to every rule. We have a feisty-willed large breed mutt who is determined to see his fifteenth birthday.
Smaller breeds tend to live longer, anywhere from twelve to fifteen years. Occasionally you will run into the nearly twenty year old Scottie, but most don?t make it past their sixteenth year.
Again, every rule has its exceptions. The Irish Wolfhound isn?t expected to make it more than six or seven good years although there really isn?t a conclusive reason as to why this is so. Of course these figures are taking into consideration overall good health and quality care. Genetics play a vital role in longetivity, but those we can?t control. There are a few factors in our favorite little guy?s life we can do to help him get to his ripe old age. Some of them can even combat predisposition to genetic diseases.
One of the fastest ways to shorten a dog?s life is to keep him outside all the time. Dogs that live outside tend to be missing a few key ingredients in their overall care that impact their life span.
Even with a shelter available, dogs do wear down and age quickly when they are dealing with constant element exposure. While some can adjust, most dog bodies find the extremes the environment can dish out at them to be exhausting and threatening.
Dogs who permanently reside outside tend to receive less over all care. Since people spend the majority of their time at home inside, often small health problems go unnoticed until it becomes an overwhelming problem. Even the responsible pet owner can forget to feed or water the dog who is permanently engaged in outdoor activities when the lifestyle inside the home becomes stressed or busy.
Outdoor dogs also lack the essential strong emotional connection with their owners that indoor dogs benefit from. Having their human friends to please and play with goes a long way in their overall happiness and health. Often a sick dog who has no emotional connection will stop eating and caring for themselves long before those who have families who love and care for them. If you want your little guy to live a longer, fuller life, bring him inside and let him be part of the family lifestyle.
Whether you are bringing home a purebred puppy or a distinguished gentleman of questionable descent, their life span can be about the same. Barring any health problems, each should live as long as the other and it really just comes down to personal preference.
>From birth to about two years old your puppy is learning and growing. Every day your little guy is reaching new miles stones and his body is very busy. High quality puppy food packed with nutrition can help set him on the foundation for a healthy life. These foods are a little more expensive, but they can be well worth the cost when considering the effects of malnutrition.
If your little guy comes from a family or breed history of hip and back problems such as hip dysplasia, excessive exercise in the first two years can put added stress on the joints in question and actually exacerbate the potential for later problems. Exercise is good, over doing isn?t.
Regular veterinary check ups and of course vaccinations during the first two years can help to catch problems early on, which will increase his overall health. This is the time when your puppy really needs you to watch out for him, whether his body is having health problems or he is ingesting things that can cause long term problems, staying on top of him now reduces health effects in his later years.
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Watch for signs of growing obesity and make sure he is receiving ample exercise and fun play time. If he is a healthy dog then these years should be stress free.
Keep at least annual appointments with the vet for check ups and updated shots. His food should be a high quality protein based variety, but if he?s showing signs of to much happy eating either cut back on his portions or switch to a low calorie variety.
Once he gets into his fifth to eighth year we can consider him a middle age to aging dog. These are the years when small but manageable health problems are likely to show up. If he?s a really good eater but hasn?t shown signs of obesity before, these are the years when his activity will slow down some and he may develop a weight problem now. Again, a good low calorie food and a few perhaps coaxed walks should be enough to help him keep his youthful figure.
Other problems such as cataracts, arthritis, or even heart murmurs are most likely to show up during these years. They are not catastrophic events and can typically be handled with a trip to the vet and either simple procedures or medication. Ignoring problems now however, are likely to grow into unmanageable problems quickly. Stay on top of his check ups and vaccinations to ward off any potential disasters looming about. Most dogs that are generally healthy should make it through these years just fine.
Depending on the size, breed, and overall health of your not so little guy, once he reaches eight years old he may be starting to push toward borrowed time. Smaller breeds won?t get there until about ten, but even medium dogs are now starting to wear down.
Just because he?s getting old doesn?t mean you have to start thinking about euthanasia. There is a possibility that he will have health and happiness for a few more years to come. However now is the time when health problems can erupt quickly and strike hard. Eight years old and beyond is when you are most likely going to face making tough decisions about your faithful canine?s quality of life. The care you gave him as a puppy is now doing its part to take care of him as he ages.
Some older dogs need to be encouraged to eat. If your once upon a time eating machine is suddenly losing weight, switch to a higher protein, higher fat content dog food to help him maintain his energy.
Our care for our dogs all the way through their lives can make a huge difference in how long they live a full and happy life. When bringing a new puppy home remember that how you treat his body right now will carry a direct effect to his life span down the road. Many dogs outlive their life span and are happy and energetic the whole way through. A little love and responsibility can go a long, long way. Any dog that has touched your life will certainly live forever.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1378.shtml
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Nov
14
Posted under
Uncategorized The Secret Shih Tzu Of The Imperial Palace Do Live On In 2005
By: Connie Limon
An explanation of why the first English Shih Tzu imports were ?very large? is during the days of imperial rule eunuchs were in charge. Eunuchs tried to profit from all breedings. The oversized specimens produced were passed into the hands of the general public.
Eunuchs fed glass to the small Imperial Shih Tzu just shortly before committing suicide themselves. This practice kept others from breeding their bloodlines of the smaller type Imperial Shih Tzu. I suppose feeding the Shih Tzu glass was the only way they could think of to ?protect their bloodlines. This practice is comparable to the Shih Tzu breeders of today, some of whom, routinely spay and neuter their Shih Tzu at the very young age of 8 weeks. There are, however, many health advantages to spaying and neutering a Shih Tzu puppy early. Most vets agree spaying and neutering should be done not sooner than 6 months of age.
The Countess d?Anjou was a leading western authority on the Shih Tzu breed. She felt the first English Shih Tzu imports were too large. She agreed to a Peking Kennel Club standard of 10 to 15 pounds. This was an agreement she later regretted. In a very famous letter the Countess wrote to Mrs. Widdrington, she states the Shih Tzu really should be under 12 pounds. At one time in Peking they had two classes, up to 12 pounds and over 12 pounds judged separately. She went on to say in her letter to Mrs. Widdrington, ?they never had the big ones in the Imperial Palace?? The Countess acquired her information from the Princess Der Ling who was a lady-in-waiting at court. Princess Der Ling had a unique position to know exactly what the palace dogs were truly like. The Countess? letter gave no explanation as to what happened to the larger Shih Tzu. Her letter did make it quite clear that only the small Shih Tzu were kept in the Imperial Palace. There was some measure of priority given to them at Peking Kennel Club Shows. The Countess? wanted this arrangement to continue in Europe. Obviously this did not happen.
Empress Dowager and the eunuchs did not want outsiders to have possession of the smaller size Shih Tzu.
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The tactics used to keep the smaller size Shih Tzu a secret of the Imperial Palace was not completely successful.
I want to emphasize the fact that the American Kennel Club?s standard weight for a Shih Tzu is 9 to 16 pounds. Any Shih Tzu entered into AKC competitions under this weight is considered a fault and is disqualified.
There are not two separate types of Shih Tzu according to the current American Kennel Club standard in the year of 2005. The nicknames of Imperial and Teacup Shih Tzu for Shih Tzu under 9 pounds in weight are just that ? Nicknames. These are not official names given to the Shih Tzu.
Take a closer look at the history and development of the Shih Tzu since the fall of the Imperial Palace. The smaller type Shih Tzu genes are interspersed throughout our bloodlines. Imperial and Teacup Shih Tzu, commonly nicknamed, are a direct result of the Original Imperial Palace Shih Tzu. The Pekingese cross after the fall of the Imperial Palace also accounts for the smaller size Shih Tzu. It is not true that ?size? predicts health status. It is not true that all small size Shih Tzu are produced from excessive line-breeding and inbreeding of close relatives.
This article does not promote or advocate the crossbreeding of Shih Tzu with any other breed to reduce size or for any other reason. The American Shih Tzu Club code of ethics clearly states this is not acceptable. The code of ethics should be followed.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1321.shtml
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Nov
13
Posted under
Uncategorized Toilet Train Your Ferret
By: Catherine Smith
So your little rascal is leaving gifts all over the house?
Luckily ferrets can be trained to use a litter tray just like cats. They are very intelligent and like to be clean, so they should pick it up quickly. Your whole family should be involved in your ferret training. You can begin ferret litter training any time, although the sooner you start, the happier you and your ferret will be.
Even if you have not trained your ferret you will notice that he will pick a spot, usually in a private corner somewhere, and return to that spot when he has to poop. Ferrets do not relate having their noses rubbed in their poop with the fact that they missed the pan, so please don?t do it. Ferrets do not cover their waste, so scooping is a daily necessity and will help minimize odour. Ferrets are more likely to use a clean pan. You will find that ferrets who feel their litter box isn’t clean enough will often go next to it.
Training
Training techniques must be adapted to individual personalities, but some basic principles apply. Put some faeces into your ferret?s new pan and then put him in there. He will probably have a sniff around and should get the idea. If you see him go to the pan and go to the toilet praise and maybe even offer a healthy treat.
If he goes outside of the pan, do not scold him. Simply place him and his poop into the pan. Eventually he should get it.
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Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough.
Litter
Clumping cat litters should not be used, unless you place the powder under other forms of litter so the ferret does not have access to the clumping litter (make sure the ferret is not a digger). Some ferrets don’t like the feel of clay litter between their toes. Additionally, ferrets “wipe their bottoms” after using their litter pan, and clumping litter particles can adhere to the ferret, and absorb too much moisture from soft tissue. Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough.
Be careful not to use anything that will give off dust particles.
In conclusion it may take some time, but it will be worth it when you have a fully toilet trained ferret running around the house. Maybe then you could move onto some other more advanced training?
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1489.shtml
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Nov
12
Posted under
Uncategorized Paws and Pesticides, A Deadly Combination
By: Dori Schwaiger
For the sake of your pets and family, please stop using chemical pesticides.
Toxic pesticides are considered an active poison. They are extremely dangerous to your health, your pets health and our environment.
Every year, thousands of domestic pets and wild life lose their lives to the ravaging effects of pesticide poisoning. Most pet lovers also enjoy gardening and the great outdoors. Little do they know what caustic ingredients are in the pesticides that are being sprayed on lawns and green areas. We take for granted that most herbicides used by gardeners or sold in stores are safe. Many name brands such as “Weed n’ Feed” and “Round Up” contain the same deadly cancer causing ingredients that were found in Agent Orange. Another synthetic poison found in these two well known garden products is 2,4-D. It is also the active ingredient found in “Killex.” It can cause loss of reflex in humans along with comas, kidney and liver failure. In dogs it is the number one killer causing malignant lymphomas, a form of cancer.
Sadly, just five percent of pesticides reach their target weeds and garden pest. The rest are absorbed into our earth, targeting our water supplies through a process called run off or simply just dissipates into our air. Major health damage can occur when Toxic Pesticides are absorbed through our skin, swallowed or inhaled. When not applied correctly, pesticides can settle on ponds, pools, children’s toys, pets left outdoors and even drift through open windows settling on our furniture, bedding and even our floors. This deadly poison is often tracked into our homes by our shoes and pets paws.
We all face the continuing problem of toxic by-products through years of pesticide residue that is in our food supply and everyday environment. What we don’t realize is how wide spread pesticide poisoning really is. These caustic chemicals are virtually used in all of our public buildings including our children’s schools and play yards, restaurants, hospitals, hotels and private homes. Pesticide abuse is used in our agriculture and forest areas.
Why are Pets Vulnerable to Pesticide Poisoning?
- Pets spend most of their time close to the ground, this is where pesticide concentration is highest.
- Pets ingest most pesticides while grooming themselves. Any contact with chemicals connect with their fur and paws and is then ingested by the pet.
- Pets spend more time outside and play in heavily treated areas.
- Pets have higher absorption rates than human systems.
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Signs of Pesticide Poisoning In Pets
- Excessive drooling and foaming at the mouth.
- Loss of thirst and appetite.
- Vomiting or diarrhea.
- Immune function decline.
- Convulsions and disorientation.
- Birds and fish die due to toxic runoff in our water supply.
- Feline thyroid disease.
- Dogs contract cancer (malignant lymphoma)
What Can We Do To Stop Pesticide Poisoning?
- Adapt an alternative “green” solution for pest control.
- Enjoy your weeds and bugs. They are part of nature.
- Educate yourself about pesticides used by your HOA, Lawn Service and immediate neighbors.
- Do not allow your pets to drink from ponds or outside water sources - always keep fresh, clean water readily available.
- Leash your pets, allowing them to run free is not a good idea.
- Bathe and brush your pets often.
- Wash down your outdoor living area.
- Think Eco-conscious when dealing with your environment.
Protect yourself and your pets from synthetic pesticides by being an educated consumer and willing activist in our Eco-system.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1541.shtml
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Nov
11
Posted under
Uncategorized Shih Tzu Topknots, Eyes And Ear Care
By: Connie Limon
The standard coat of a Shih Tzu should be luxuriously long and dense with a good wooly undercoat. The hair on top of the head may be tied up. When a Shih Tzu is completely brushed and combed the Shih Tzu should have a sleek look. The beard comes to a point and a long, luxuriant moustache flows over the beard.
Method of making a Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy topknot:
1. Part the hair from the ear on both sides of the head.
2. Gather up in one hand the hair in the middle and slip on a latex band at the base.
3. The band may have to be wrapped around twice to make it secure.
4. A ribbon or barrette is recommended to be attached to latex band.
How to make your own Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy bows:
1. Cut one yard of ribbon. The ribbon can be any width you desire.
2. From this yard of ribbon, cut another piece about 5? long. Splice this in half lengthwise.
3. Cut the remainder of the yard in half. This material should give you enough for two ribbons or bows.
4. Wrap one of the long pieces around two fingers. Slip the folded ribbon off your fingers and double it over.
5. With a utility scissors, snip off a piece at the corners in a ?V? shape, but not a sharp V, for you will lose any thread of support.
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6. Take one of the spliced pieces (5?) and tie the ribbon at the centerfold securely.
7. Separate each fold by gently pulling out and twisting each fold out from the center. Do both sides. When all the folds are pulled out and twisted, the bow is completed. All that remains is to fasten the bow to a tuft of hair, using the ends of the center splice to tie the knot. Cut off any excess ribbon that remains.
Care of the Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy?s ears:
Because of the long hair covering the Shih Tzu puppy?s ears, problems can develop when the ear gets little air. Clean the excess hair out of your Shih Tzu puppy?s ear canal (not the ear flap) to improve air circulation and help prevent infection.
Care of the Shih Tzu?s eyes:
Shih Tzu generally has large eyes with shallow sockets. A Shih Tzu?s eyes are more prone to injury than most other breeds. If your Shih Tzu puppy?s eyes are red or cloudy or tear excessively, or if your dog squints and rubs at his eye, have a vet look at your Shih Tzu puppy?s eye to determine the cause.
Professionalism in Shih Tzu grooming:
The word professional means ?one skilled in a profession, craft, or art. The word professionalism is defined as ?the methods, manner, or spirit of a profession.
To become professional at anything, one must have the skills appropriate to the art, craft or profession and must conduct themselves professionally.
This article is FREE to publish with resource box.
Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1385.shtml
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Nov
10
Posted under
Uncategorized How To Prevent And Treat A Hoof Crack
By: Hannu Polvi
For any horse hobbyist and anyone who is a caregiver of horses, hoof crack can be a very serious problem if it is not handled properly.
What I have seen here in my country, the problem of hoof cracks have been decreased among trotters, because the training and racing circumstances are better for horses nowadays. The ground is better for horses to run and by that also better for hooves.
Universally looking this problem, people who have horses as a hobby, mostly as riding horses or pets, are facing hoof crack problems more often.
I think the reason for that is just the lack of information how to take care of horses in whole, and in what kind of ground horses can be exercised, and in what kind of ideal circumstances the horse should spend his time, in pasture, paddock and stable.
It is almost never possible to give the horse the ideal circumstances, and therefore it is important that the owner/caretaker of the horse helps him to manage. Some hints about that later in this article.
Common reasons for hoof crack happen when a horse is galloping or trotting on hard ground.
The hoof will get a very strong concussion when hitting the ground, much like a person who falls and hits his head. When the hoof is hitting the hard ground, there is a big possibility that the hoof will crack.
The hoof itself doesn’t have a shock absorber, ok, the flexibility of sound hoof is some kind of that, but the ground should be the one for the hoof. So, soft/flexible ground is always better for the horse hoof in providing shock absorption and hard ground will not.
Weak walls of the hoof are one reason, because they can’t manage the pressure and they cracks. Weak walls can be a reason of bad hoof material or thin wall.
Laminitis can cause hoof crack because of the changes in the hoof.
Very dry horn of the hoof is causing cracks because the hoof has lost its flexibility.
The list of reasons for cracked hooves is quite long: bad heels, improper shoeing, unbalanced hoof, sharp stones, these all can be reasons for hoof crack, so it is important that person who shoes the horse, knows what he is doing.
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Weather conditions, climate, can cause hoof crack too: too dry conditions can dry the hoof too much and the hoof is losing its flexibility, and too wet can moist the hoof too much and the hoof will be too soft.
Heel cracks and cracks which are close to the heel, are the difficult ones, because there are not so much hoof wall to work with(to put a patch for example), and heel cracks are usually infected, so they need more work to get away the infection first, if there is a possibility to patch it.
A quarter crack mostly tells you that the horse, or the hoof, is overworked and the horse need some rest. One reason for quarter crack can be when the horse is tired, in a race for example, he can step in bad angle the hoof to the ground and by that getting the crack. The horse can’t control his movements good enough anymore.
To read more about how to prevent and treat Hoof Crack, continue reading the article here: http://www.horsehoofandfootproblem.com/articles/hoofcrackarticle.html
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